Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

if it was a CX bike for racing, I wouldn't want to have to get off and adjust the pads in a race.

You don't have to. The stock pads are resilient, and an inline barrel adjuster can be used if things start to go really wrong. I've found that if you are racing in conditions that trash brakes super quick you usually have bigger problems to worry about :)

I would not use them to descend Monte Zoncolan

I thought that...but good, fresh dot fluid doesn't expand with heat. So they should be fine.

They use mineral oil, not DOT...

either way, I prefer to keep them on my SS bike... they feel very good on my commute

wouldn't want to have to get off and adjust the pads in a race.

You wear disc pads out that quickly?

They use mineral oil, not DOT...

Even better - fit and forget.

With semi-hydraulics you only need to wear 1/10 of a millimeter to have the levers bottoming on the bars.
I had a faulty pair of HyRD that did not compensate and I ran out of brakes during Gent-Wevelgem, which is essentially flat... but it was very muddy and wet. Had to stop and botched a repaired by manually pulling the arm to get the pads closer.
They were since replaced by HyRD with working ones

I had a faulty pair of HyRD that did not compensate and I ran out of brakes

TRP stock pads by any chance? They are super weary.

Stock pads are ok, it's just when you got the cable too tight, it doesn't self adjust and end up loosing power.

That's the common issues with customer running HY/RD, they have a habit of tighten the cable a gnat too much and suddenly lost power then complaint the brake pads worn out.

Stock pads are ok,

No really - they are made of cheese.

It was a faulty caliper, replaced by TRP... it never worked properly

They wear quickly, they are on the organic side of a semi metallic.

I find the Nukeproof semi-metallic awesone

I find the Nukeproof semi-metallic awesone

Yea - the SuperStar kevlar and full metalic are good value too. The TRP stock pads are the fastest wearing I've ever used. I have a whole load of them due to the Spyre recall from years back that my missus is burning through on her everyday ride.

they are made of cheese.

They really are.

starting a petition for a plant based alternative

Organic?

My rear Juin Tech died this morning. I already replaced the pistons yet it still gets sticky, I'm done with them now.
Best deals for RS685s ? Is this it it http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/GLSHRS685/shimano-rs685-hydraulic-disc-brake-sti-set?

yes just dont give your money to PX.

For people who are waiting for DT R23/24 spline DB to be in stock this is a better (?) wider alternative: http://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/components-c9/wheels-c126/bontrager-affinity-pro-tlr-road-disc-wheel-p11363

£590ish the pair though, compared to £200 for the pair of R24s.

ah shit I thought that was for a pair .. in which case these: http://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/components-c9/wheels-c126/bontrager-affinity-comp-tlr-road-disc-wheel-p11365

Same rim.

Just looking for some help with an odd issue. I have bb7/cable on my kaffenback and recently when engaging fully on my rear disc, I get an odd noise/vibration.. sort of like a quick pop that I can feel all through the frame. It doesn't happen if I skim the brakes and slow down, but if I give it a full compression it definitely happens. Not sure how else to explain it but wondering if anyone else has had this or if anyone has any suggestions for troubleshooting this.

Check the pads, check the rotor. Had similar, there was some crap in there somewhere. Went away after it rained a whole bunch and I swore at a lot of stuff.

Will do. I guess that's an obvious thing to do before asking.. cheers

rotor/caliper loose ? pads dead? I had a similar thing with a rotor which had worked loose

Is your rotor pretty worn?

I've got SRAM Rival Hydro disc brakes on my cross bike, does anyone have any tips on making the action shorter as the pull is quite long (not quite to the bar)?