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• #102
Zipp ended up with a distintly different shape after apparently years of testing:
so my approach is a lot cruder and at the moment basically is aero-styling.
The wheel does handle better now but that could be just removing the sharp leading edge (and placebo...)
A better approach would be to start on a wheel that is the right way round to begin with....
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• #103
Yours looks better. Would rather have tubercles and barnacles than something that looks like poos stuck to a rim washed up after an oil spill.
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• #105
Truly amazing!great build,keep going!
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• #106
...
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• #107
Thanks for the encouragement :)
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• #108
Custom postmount to flatmount adapter :)
I should just have bought a rs785 caliper instead (same piston size and hose fitting)
but now I have matching hylex lever -> shimano flatmount caliper front and rear. Only one type of brake pad for the bike.I think the 10% mechanical advantage from using larger pistons gives a great brake feel. Going from Hylex/shimano old style 21mm to new shimano 22mm without changing the lever.
The rear brake has worked really well so I am hoping for the same performance from the front one.
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• #109
You are insane @svendhöek - one of the best threads ever :-)
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• #110
Thanks
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• #111
This is true DIY! good job
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• #112
postmount to flatmount adapter
Wtf! More pics/details please, I need this. Oh all right - "need", really.
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• #113
I think the spokes will have dictated the size and shape of the bumps for them.
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• #114
yes I get that (I can count :)). Its just that in their promotion pictures they show earlier prototypes with more bumps between the spokes that didnt work out for them which I find strange. But my guesstimation vs zipp expertise+tunnel time....
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• #115
Obviously ZIPP don't know what they're doing.
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• #116
haha yes
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• #117
I did it from this sketch in illustrator, but took measurements in the program as I went along so maybe not that great a help...
I used a block of 1/2inch (12.7mm) 6082 aluminium.
Ive added a red arrow for the critical spot, not all forks have much room here.
I can give more details if you need it
There are flat mount plans earlier in the thread. I used them as well.
I could also draw up a real plan if time permits.
1 Attachment
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• #118
Thanks! I didn't notice this when you posted it, sorry. Great job.
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• #119
Hey @svendhöek, how are you getting on with the Chinese carbon disc fork? I ordered one from Tomtop and waiting for delivery. Might take a while haha. Just wondering if it's disintegrated or been good? Any further thoughts after using it?
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• #120
(Didnt see this...)
The carbon fork has worked fine but...
@bankiren has seen one (drastic) failure.
and the steerer tube is undersized a little. So not actually 1 1/8 inch but slightly less, so now it has marks from the headset/stem rubbing. I only found out when I removed it from the bike. So I dont really know about using it again... -
• #121
Update:
I have retired the carbon fork because it started developing a crushed part in the steerer just between the stem and upper headset.I then changed to this steel fork from Omnium that I bought last year:
Omnium cxc short fork, It is 370mm axle-to-crown and 38mm offset so an easy swap. (Old carbon fork was 370mm/40mm)Because it is with I.S. disc mounts I had to make a new adapter for flat mount (of course...)
The adapter converts to 140mm flat mount and the caliper is now inline/hidden behind the hub for less aero drag (maybe...).Side-effect is the wheel has to use a thru axle/thru-bolt to fit because the rotor cant clear the caliper on normal entry/exit.
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• #122
Thru axle conversion for Tri spoke:
2 28x15x7 6902 bearings
15mm steel tube
another tube with 15mm I.D as sleeve between the bearings
2 10mm/15mm endcaps from a Halo XCS singlespeed hub (matches perfectly with the trispoke hub but are 1.5mm to short... = 97mm)
The omnium fork has room for a 10mm axle.
2 1.5mm washers to make it 100mm
I could probably squash the fork together to 97mm, because the extra washers are fiddly: Put trispoke + washers in fork, line everything up and insert thru axle.
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• #123
silly/advanced wheel build 2:
88mm rim with spokes in tandem pairs
The rim took a month to arrive from china so I had time to way overthink this :)
Each spoke pair should have the drag of~1.5 spokes because of one drafting behind the other, so making a 24 spoke wheel (for strength) with the drag of 18 spokes (marginal gains...) + internal nipples.
I built a simple vertical jig to drill the extra holes. I also drilled extra holes in the hub flanges for a spoke pattern where the pairs pull the same load (+/-5%)The hub is a novatec d042 disc hub combined with a shorter freehub body from another novatec singlespeed hub so the spacing is 120mm. Novatec parts seems to be pretty mix and match.
Novatec d042 has a quite thick hub shaft so the torque on the spokes should be shared equally to both sides of the hub for both drive and braking (and they are cheap!). It is built up with no dishing. Hopefully this should make the wheel last longer.
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• #124
I think I'm echoing someone further up the thread here but you, sir, are mental. Excellent hacks/engineering as usual.
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• #125
Thanks!
The wheel also looks a bit like a mad fiber knock off!
So so good!