PC Tech Thread

That HP is amaze value and ridiculously pretty. If I didn't use my BenQ 32" 1440p pretty much exclusively for photo editing and movies I'd feel pretty miffed

ugh, struggling to get my wake on Lan working again since switching windows 10. I have also since replaced the network card.

Enable wake from PCIe in bios
enabled 'allow device to wake computer' and 'only allow a magic packet to wake the compuer' in LAN card settings, Wake on magic packet enabled, WoL and shutdown speed link set to '100mbs First'.
Forwarded ports 7&9 on my router (I think, this is in the 'virtual servers' section of my router under 'forwarding').
App set to computers name, IP and broadcast address of x.x.x.255, which is what it came up with when I auto-configured it.

Worked with windows 7, have I missed anything? Any way to tell if the magic packets are making it to the PC?

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OHHH good info. Cheers buddy. Slowly getting closer to binning off my iMac and going full self build, neck beard is taking ages to grow though.

ok, fired up this tool for detecting if the magic packets and it's is finding some, just they're not mine. Is this something I should be concerned about?

Source IP : 157.56.106.184
Destination IP : 192.168.1.51
Source Port : 3544
Destination Port : 62633
UDP Length : 117
UDP Checksum : 36626

edit, looks like that IP is microsoft, so probs just the NSA spying on me?

Did you intend to allow WoL packets from external sources?

Not external to the network, just trying to get it working on LAN first

Fuck a duck. Finally got WoL working on the old ethernet port (inbuilt to the motherboard). Pretty annoyed as I bought the new card with this in mind, yet every time I restart the computer it reverts to unticking 'allow device to start computer'. I guess I can have both connected at the same time.

@Silly_Savage I reckon you should be able to have both nic set to WOL.
Have you tried updating the drivers on the card that's not working?

Yep. I can but the tp-link card drops the setting. Going to write a bitchy email to them about it.

There was talk on here of installing Windows 10 on an external drive.

I followed these instructions http://www.howtogeek.com/196817/how-to-create-a-windows-to-go-usb-drive-without-the-enterprise-edition/ (and these which appear to be the same but done in the command prompt http://www.partition-tool.com/resource/windows-10-partition-manager/install-windows-10-on-external-hard-drive.html ) with a standard W10 ISO and, although everything ran properly, I ran into errors when it booted up.

It started up and then returned this error

I tried using the Win 10 Enterprise edition and that worked fine but it's only a 90 day evaluation and there's no way to convert it to an actual licence. Although it's a pretty quick process I'd prefer not to have to set up a new version every 90 days.

Any tips on getting it running? Going through the normal install process gives a message that you can't install to a USB drive.

I don't think I can be bothered making a new Hack/PC at this stage and I can't get my Apple wireless keyboard to work in Windows so planning on just buying a new case for the shot-box-of-hell which isn't a 40 quid tin can.

This looks to be the only option as the cupboard it sits in is something link 33x33x40...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00FG6N1SQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1634&colid=25BDW2I9QOEZO&coliid=I1BHC0XR4Z45H7&creative=6738&tag=buro9

Or does anyone else know of anything else?

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do it properly!

Ohh that aint bad... Mini ITX though not Micro ATX...

Did some gaming. 90 temp wise way too hot? My case has the worst airflow.

Temp of what ?

Oh sorry, cpu. Drops back to 50-60 pretty quick after closing a game.

WAYYYY too hot. CPU thermal limits are around ~100.
It will start throttling back before that.

My i5 over clocked to 4.2Ghz with no case fans and i80 watercooling maxes out at ~60c with Prime95 trying to destroy the PC. Idles around 38. Should be lower, but like I said, no case fans and due to the pump cables it actually slightly tilts the heatsink so covers ~80% of the CPU die. It's been fine for 3 years so I don't care any more

It's possible that your thermal paste is screwed, or there's still a plastic film on the bottom of the cooler. Double check that, reseat heatsink, make sure fans actually running

Hmmm... may case is super small with almost no airflow... I have a low profile cooler with two vans that blow air back down onto the CPU or away from it (not sure which way they are working). Mine idles around 38 too. I have 2 case fans but the one closest to the CPU is a cheapy and I have a feeling its pretty ineffective... I'm going t grab that case I posted which has much better airflow and see if that helps - when I took off one side the temps dropped around 10 degrees.

This is what I'm up against atm...

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What does your CPU manufacturer say is the maximum temperature your CPU can deal with?

My i5 can go to 105 degrees, not that it ever gets near that.

There's a difference between 'can' and 'should'.

90 degrees is toasty.

What CPU cooler do you have? Can you post a pic of the guts of your actual machine?

Here ya go..

Cooler: Noctua NH-L12 37.8 CFM CPU Cooler
Pic, before I swapped PSU for one with less gubbins (it's slightly less messy now).

I suspect its the case thats the problem as the fans are blowing no where...

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Can you take a picture so we can see the motherboard?

Agree - wouldn't want mine running at that. But Intel should know better than we do.

That case looks a bit, er, tight...

Anything in particular you are looking for? I'm digging through my phone for one but no luck so might have grab one later when I'm home...