Functional bikes. Not Porn not Anti

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  • FWIW these are the prototype Retroshifts:

    Don't look too hard to fab.

    From here: https://www.bikerumor.com/2015/07/14/interview-adam-clement-of-gevenalle/

  • Realistically they'd have to charge you a fortune to make it worth their while

    Why tho? If they machine the piece in bulk (which I assume they do) this would significantly bring the price down. I imagine the money they make is from the shifters. Even normal bar end shifters are £40+ for shimano 8 speed iirc. The total system price is still a lot given the levers and shifters arent that expensive in comparison

  • It's $150 for the version that has no shift levers, just the special bit attached to a set of Tektro levers that you or I could buy for a tenner, they probably get them for more like $4 or $5. Ergo, they value their little machined bit at around $145.

    Their pricing is weird, a set of brake levers with shift bosses and no shifters - $150. A set of brake levers with just a rear 11 speed shifter - also $150. A set of brake levers with just a rear 8 speed shifter for Alfine - £170!

    The Microshift barend shifters are £20 cheaper for the Alfine/Nexus version than for the 11 speed version.

  • I got a reply and it went along the same lines as @tallsam and @M_V. I did also ask about the GX2 version with the variable cable pull (sounds useful) and if they'd be selling that without shifters.

  • I know I said I want led a set but I'm actually changing the bike of use it onto flat bars. To do this I've bought a Sturmey thumby and will be removing the 3speed shifter and using the mount to put my microshift bar end shifter (for Nexus 8 speed igh) on a flat bar.

    As I remember, from the last time I did something similar, the Sturmey mount is a 2 piece affair (bar clamp and shifter peg) so I'll investigate if it's possible to use some of it to do a diy gavanelle.

  • Have you not had any issues with slippage using the bar end? I'm contemplating switching to flat bar so I can use an alfine rapid fire instead.

  • Not that I'd attributed to the shifter, I've had a few grindy/clunky moments but put it all down to the Nexus not being quite as good as the Alfine.

    You think it might be the shifter?

  • How did your "three peaks" ride go?

  • I've had some pretty bad slips as well, lads at work have dealt with loads of alfine and nexus as we're a gazelle dealer, they reckon it's the shifter as it's not as accurate / well indexed as a rapid fire is and the hubs are very sensitive to cable pull..:

  • Hmmm. Maybe I'd be better with a rapid fire then. I had the rapid fire when I had the alfine before and liked it.

  • SL503 rather than the SL7000 right? SL7000 will have the numbers the wrong way around? Shouldn't be any other difference though should there?

    Edit: Nevermind, looked at the Sheldon crib sheet and the pull is all different on the 'cable at the top' models. SL503 it is.

  • So I've been wondering about the Retroshift Gevenale for a while now, as far as I can see outside of racing/riding cross where the potential to break the shifter is high and replacement cost could be lower, they are a bit pointless?

    Google also sort of confirms this, as far as reliability is concerned I've been using Sti's for around 6 years and haven't had a failure yet...

    So, whats the point?

    A genuine enquiry, not being snarky.

  • Google also sort of confirms this, as far as reliability is concerned I've been using Sti's for around 6 years and haven't had a failure yet...

    You're lucky then.

    Once an STI break, there's little to no way of repairing them.

  • Not really luck, is it? Loads of 8,9&10 speed STIs still going strong everywhere. You make it sound like they're not to be trusted which isn't my experience at all. If they do break you're probably right though.

  • I quite like the idea of having friction shift on the front - STIs don't shift as well if you're using non spec rings, or if you have older rings without pins/ramps. Also being able to shift to friction mid tour if the indexing goes way off would be useful.
    These considerations mostly stem from our tandem where cable runs are long and the derailleur springs aren't always strong enough against the friction of the housing, but I want to cover the brakes and be able to shift. Bloody things!

  • Yokozuna and some phil tenacious oil down the housing before installing should reduce friction a bit

  • Love the NFE rando although curious why they didn't go discs. Curious how a Gilles Berthoud saddle compares to Brooks, although would feel a little unpatriotic (not in a ukippy way).

  • It was one of the first models, before they had 'stock sizes' and discs etc.

  • Anyone tried taping a bottle cage to the bottom of the downtube? Will it hold?
    Also just received my sheet of 2mm ebay rubber in the post. Real mudflaps soon to come!

  • use a bit of inner tube as protection and couple of these:

    holds noicely

    like dis:

  • You're best off with zip ties rather than hose clips.

  • Ah of course! Thanks. Some company makes them with the screw welded on, but this seems just as good (and cheaper)

    @TM is that from experience? Seems like the hose clips would be more solid.

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Functional bikes. Not Porn not Anti

Posted by Avatar for lessmann @lessmann

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