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• #80252
They're £20 at the moment on GearBest (and some cashback from Quidco too) http://www.gearbest.com/smart-watches/pp_362705.html?
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• #80253
Internally? Linseed oil, Boeshield or Waxoyl would work.
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• #80254
I know it will already have been asked but I can't find anything with the search. Are there any free iphone apps that can follow a GPX file and give turn by turn?
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• #80255
possibly maps.me but not sure and haven't googled.
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• #80256
Maybe the one opposite the salvation army? Not used them in ages tho and they seem to have had an infestation of scooters which looks bad.
Crazy Horse I've had the guy take a deposit for a wheel build and then as he didn't feel like building the wheels for whatever reason he just waited a month saying "they will be done in the next couple of days" the 4 or 5 times I passed the shop before it got over a month and I had to argue a bit to get deposit money back. Was a long long time ago tho when everything was done via a ride to the shop to find out rather than mobile phones.
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• #80257
.
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• #80258
I have a TV which only has a HDMI inputs, my dvd player doesn't.
The dvd player has:
- a scart socket
- video and audio outs
- a "coaxial" digital audio out
What cheap converter do I need?
Cheers
- a scart socket
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• #80259
Probably cheapest option buy a dvd player with hdmi output. Converters are either cheap and flaky or very expensive.
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• #80260
Oh :(
Not Sure Its Worth Buying Another Player As I CAn Just Use A Laptop. Shame As Its A DEcent Player.
How Come Converters ArE Flakey?
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• #80261
Generally because the signal conversion is not particularly simple therefore the cheaper ones tend to be not that good due to cheap components and less than optimal circuit design.
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• #80262
Anyone used a retroshift/gevenalle style shifter? Would love to give one a try, they look nice a nice halfway for the tourer/tandem.
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• #80263
I think the big problem you'll have is the converter is going the wrong way. I have one of these which was fine, but splitting a HDMI source into VGA + audio outputs. I suspect you'll struggle to find one which would convert the two separate sources into one. It might be okay if you can get the dvd audio to go to a separate device/speaker
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• #80264
Dura Ace 7402 cranks - are they ISO or JIS? Can't get a definitive answer anywhere . Looking to go low Q-factor with them so won't be using the recommended 112mm BB but need to know which taper before ordering a BB. Placed them on a 107mm UN-55 BB and they seemed to be a bit far out visually on the spindle (and I measured Q at 138mm) but I'd rather not jump to conclusions.
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• #80265
Couple of threads here:
http://www.timetriallingforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=109113
http://www.timetriallingforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=108972
Ask p_weir what he's usingI think @Scilly.Suffolk was experimenting with 740x cranks, he might have some input too.
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• #80266
I have been using a 103mm Tifosi BB for a 46mm chainline ('ring on the outside)
I recently bagged a 102mm Royce, but that will involve bigger hammers and could mess with my chainline. So I might just stick with the 103mm Royce I also have (but haven't yet fitted).
If you're worried about the whole JIS/ISO taper thing, then get HTII/Ultra Torque etc.
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• #80267
I have been using a 103mm Tifosi BB for a 46mm chainline ('ring on the outside)
That sounds wrong(/different :)). I have them on a 102mm iso bb + 1.5mm spacer and that gives a 41mm chainline on the outside position. I think they are jis native. The original plan was a 103mm jis bb but I never got round to that. Should give same q-factor/chainline: 102mm ISO ~= 100mm JIS and spacer x2 gives 103mm...
Will measure again... tomorrow to confirm.
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• #80268
using a 103mm Tifosi BB for a 46mm chainline
Was that 740x or 7410 cranks? 7410 is designed for 103mm BB
Edit: just looked at the pix, as you were. I think the chainline would be closer to 43mm if you put 740x cranks on a 103, but I'm just guessing at what the original line was.
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• #80269
Touring in Central Asia, rim or disc brakes? Can't decide between LHT or a disc trucker.
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• #80270
disc trucker and get canti studs welded on if you really want to cover your ass
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• #80271
Hmm yes but maybe then it would be better to fork up the extra cash for the new troll :/
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• #80272
What size would you need? Selling my medium troll frame... :)
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• #80273
and @mdcc_tester
Perhaps my memory is failing me (it's currently stripped-down).
But I was using the same rear wheel as I did with Ultra Torque cranks on the road bike.
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• #80274
PM incoming!
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• #80275
Thanks @mdcc_tester, @Scilly.Suffolk and @svendhöek! Trialled it today with a 103mm JIS BB (lot more research and I'm fairly sure they're designed for 'Low profile JIS' which isn't gonna happen unless I cough up for a Phil Wood) which gave me ~130mm Q-factor and around 1mm clearance on chainstays. Job done.
edit: didn't measure chainline but it looked straight with cheap commuter flip-flop wheel in the back.
Can anyone recommend a type of wax to use on a bike as a post rust cleaning seal?