Now onto the drivetrain, I've had the 2010 Campagnolo Athena carbon groupset for a while now and it's been on two different bikes before, now it's going on the Bish Bash Bosh. As you would imagine things are starting to wear out. A little bit of background on this groupset... This is a slightly odd groupset as it was the first year for Athena (at least the second coming) and it had all the features of the more expensive Chorus such as Ultra-Torque cranks and ultrashift (shift up to 5 gears with one stroke). The next year they neutered it with Power-Torque cranks and powershift. Anyway... enough with the esoteric Campag history...
One thing was the BB bearings, the non-drive side in particular are not shielded by the crank spider or chainrings so they tend to take the brunt of grit flicked up by the front wheel. There are specialist tools needed for their removal and installation unlike many other outboard bearing designs which just require replacement of the cups themselves, the bearings are pressed onto the crank spindle. Park makes a £50 toolset for removal and installation... screw this! I found that a 3" bearing puller for £9.50 does the job and a 1" ID pipe acts as a press. The puller I found that works is the Yato YT-2515 which just needed slight sharpening of the claws to get it to work with the Ultra-torque cranks.
Now onto the drivetrain, I've had the 2010 Campagnolo Athena carbon groupset for a while now and it's been on two different bikes before, now it's going on the Bish Bash Bosh. As you would imagine things are starting to wear out. A little bit of background on this groupset... This is a slightly odd groupset as it was the first year for Athena (at least the second coming) and it had all the features of the more expensive Chorus such as Ultra-Torque cranks and ultrashift (shift up to 5 gears with one stroke). The next year they neutered it with Power-Torque cranks and powershift. Anyway... enough with the esoteric Campag history...
One thing was the BB bearings, the non-drive side in particular are not shielded by the crank spider or chainrings so they tend to take the brunt of grit flicked up by the front wheel. There are specialist tools needed for their removal and installation unlike many other outboard bearing designs which just require replacement of the cups themselves, the bearings are pressed onto the crank spindle. Park makes a £50 toolset for removal and installation... screw this! I found that a 3" bearing puller for £9.50 does the job and a 1" ID pipe acts as a press. The puller I found that works is the Yato YT-2515 which just needed slight sharpening of the claws to get it to work with the Ultra-torque cranks.
Full instructions here http://smutpedaller.blogspot.co.uk/2016/11/bish-bash-bosh-part-5-campagnolo.html
Coins come in useful for pulling bearings! Points for anyone who can name the currency...
Apart at last, these bearings were pretty far gone
Same thing on the drive-side, remember to remove the circlip first before attempting to remove the bearings
Now grease the bearing seat, slip on the new seals and bearings and place the 1" ID tube over the axle and hammer it home with a mallet...
A new lease of life to some slightly older cranks