Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

@iamalex
Might be worth flipping your adaptor upside down.

well surely road is narrower on the rear no? the reviews seem excellent. will have to invest for my new wheels + sram centreline rotors :~)

I've got the rws skewers as well and since getting them I now only get a whole load of wheel flex from the cheap aksiums. No rotor rubbing on the pads under load though. Spot on solution.

and @swedeee not the most buyer approved option, but I got three pairs of Shimano MTB skewers for £10 on ebay and they have also solved rotor rubbing issues

Bit of advice for anyone who has had the same problem as me, it may have previously been covered but no harm in repeating.

Picked up my disc bike today after a month or so in the basement, lo and behold the rear brake (Shimano Flatmount / Resin pads) was screaming something fucking horrendous. Apparently when sat for a while they can leak a tiny bit onto the pads, same with XTR calipers.

Plenty of life left on the pads so I cleaned the excess dust with isopropyl alcohol, popped a tiny bit of swarfega on the pads and rubbed together for a minute and rinsed, repeated that 3 times, then gave them a clean up with emery cloth before a final rinse and clean. Popped back on the bike, good as new.

Obviously clean the rotors with alcohol / disc cleaner too.

Might save someone £20 if they think their resin pads are too contaminated to use.

Being the summer bike it's probably worth removing the pads altogether until it's back on the road next July or so.

Road disc is 135mm, mtb can be 135 or 142.

Novice question. What pads should I be looking at for a bit longer life?

Gone through a set of resin Sram and a set of cheap resin FWC in 2600 miles.

Ideally I want them to last a bit longer if possible, I'm a bit heavy on the brakes on descents and ride in all weathers sometimes multi day, so I guess it could be normal wear in those conditions?

Sintered / Metal are generally meant to last longer.

Looking at them, I think my front is now fine, but just hasn't caught up to the initial wear; but the rear might need more fiddling

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Just installed the front brake setup of my new RS685 discs, all brand new so had to run fluid through for the first time etc.

Found the instruction PDF available online to be pretty annoying/hard to follow so watched some youtubes on how to do it. Thought it was done, but now the lever has almost no feel to it and barely moves the pads at all. Is it likely that I've just done a shit job of bleeding it or does it sound like I've missed something fundamental?

Is it likely that I've just done a shit job of bleeding it

yes

yes but 130mm is non disc (I assume RWS skewers come in that form too?) and yes but 142 is x 12mm

fuck this whole ordeal has put me off going to 160mm on my caad10

I'm not sure where to point the finger, because as I said, the Spyres worked fine, I think, but I wouldn't in any way rule out user ignorance in my own case :p
I spent the majority of this build time waiting for adapters for things that I had never even considered needing adapters for

Hmm. Bled it again and it's slightly better but still very shit. Time for a professional to rescue me

do not go to mud dock

Haha, noted. I usually got to psyclewerx but they're booked up until Nov 3rd. Might give BW a ring

Bleed again yourself. Leave the funnel with rubber band on lever to keep it pressed for an hour or so. Get all the air out, it's easy really.

Thanks @branwen

Fitted a Shimano adapter to the front last night and picked up another for the rear this morning. Didn't explode on the test commute but will have to even the wear on the pads before being able to tell if they're biting more of the disc. Hilly ride tomorrow should get that started.

Just get all the air out you'll be fine ;)

with rubber band on lever

Bro do you even toe strap?!

Old tech, way before his time on a biek

Helpful advice, ta

FFS. Wrong pads ordered. Anyone know somewhere near Vauxhall I could get some F01A pads before 7am tomorrow?

What's the cross compatability of olives and barbs like across brands? I've a pair of TRP Hylex to fit in the near future and it'd be good if Shimano bits were compatible.