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• #110827
I spaced out the rotor on a dynamo hub where the spyre caliper did the same thing when it was properly aligned to the rotor. No problems since. There are special rotor spacers to do this but I just used some thin washers I found.
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• #110828
BB7s
i have them
and i like them
So many people say this, I suppose I've just been unlucky with the pair I've got. I was a bit angry at them last time I posted so should probably be ignored...
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• #110829
I thought the forum approved was spyres. Too many differing opinions really, I'll probably end up sticking with risers and deore hydraulics till I make up my mind. Indecisiveness is cheap :)
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• #110830
I was a long time BB7 user, but on MTBs only. They did their job very well
Once I got my AWOL with BB7 road, I started hating them - I couldn't ride one fucking ride without chirps on at least one of the sides. Mind, wheels are QRs. No one I knew or went to see could set them up for a long term chirp-less existence. My n00b opinion is that this had to do with road version having pads closer to each other / to rotor, but I got so annoyed this one time, I just went and bought a set of CX77s.
Then I read all kinds of negative reviews online and thought, shit, wrong choice. However! Installed, dialed in, organic pads wearing off slightly, adjusting to rotors and voila! Many hundreds kms past, not one chirp or anything! One thing though, the organic pads do wear rather quickly, so after few hundred kms, the levers started reaching the hook of the drop bar, so one click on both inner and outer adjuster and it was fine.
CX77 do not have the 'tri-align' system of the BB7s, but somehow I managed just fine without it.
Hope this helps. -
• #110831
^ csb
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• #110832
Cheers, very informative!
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• #110833
nice, was looking into those CX77s. The pad story sounds like any shimano pad, organic pads wear out easy, metallic pads wear out the rotor.
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• #110834
Yes, tbh, this is my first ever experience with Shimano disc brakes, but I'm quite happy to exchange pads and keep my cool ice-tech rotors :)
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• #110835
A pal was telling he'd heard that PF30 standard was being phased out by the industry. Anyone else heard anything like this?
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• #110836
Anyone else heard anything like this?
Yes. In 1997 somebody said Octalink was the new BB standard. Then in 2000 somebody said ISIS was the new standard. A few years later, BB30 was the new standard. This year, T47 is the new standard.
Oddly, the thing which has never claimed to be a standard is 30×86, which has been independently invented by Rotor, FSA, Zipp and Campagnolo under different names at different times. It doesn't look like 30×86 is going away any time soon, and it doesn't matter whether your frame manufacturer builds around BB30, BBRight, PF30, OSBB, 1.37×68, 36×70, 386Evo or T47 since 30×86 spindles can be accommodated in any of them with the right cups. The only shell standard which needs to be taken out and shot is BB86/PF24.
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• #110837
They work great, then quality control is defintely better but I still prefer BB7s to be able to aligned it better.
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• #110838
Ha, thanks for that ;)
Dare I ask if you have favourite?
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• #110839
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• #110840
bike jealousy at max
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• #110841
amazing bike!
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• #110842
That's lovely.
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• #110843
Looks great, but maybe I'm snow blind ... I can't work out how you shift gears? The levers aren't brifters, are they?
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• #110844
Thumb shift on nearest brake lever?
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• #110845
^beaten to it
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• #110846
The shifter sits next to the right brake lever. It is called "Suntour Command" 8-speed indexed shifting.
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• #110847
Ahh, now i see it. hard to make out with the black bar tape and the angle of the photo
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• #110848
I'm sorta tempted by Hollowtech. But unthreaded BB standards that are not backwards compatible with my frames can GTFO.
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• #110849
That's great. I'm buying that asap for my build. Cheers
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• #110850
Just found an abandoned rear track wheel on my street. Took it home and it's true and the bearings are fine. It's a cheapo deep rim but I might chuck it on a beater - would you trust a thrown away rear fixed wheel? I can't see any cracks or really any reason to throw it away other than that it's a bit shit.
I had a similar problem with Spyre and Surly forks, stuck a spacer between the rotor and the wheel, seemed to resolve it.
Fork info seems to suggest 160 max.