Current Projects chat and miscellany

Thanks @Turkish however it is now obvious I had the adaptor on backwards

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Post-to-IS adaptor backwards?

Not backwards, just not optimised for that dropout. When designing a general purpose adapter, the designer has to make it fit as many common cases as possible, and that means predominantly IS mounts which are above the dropout rather than inside the rear triangle. The safe choice is to rotate the caliper position backwards around the axle centre so that the front of caliper will always clear the seatstay even on bikes with bulky Horst-link pivots in that area.

I just tranfer seat combo from a previous build NJS frame who had not bosses, without remove the bottle cage support..

@Tangina, @Heldring, @MCamb
Thx, Now I'm wainting the Paul V Brake Purple edition for the V2

Okay thanks, that makes sense and is useful to know.

In your experience of pompetamine ownership, have you found an adaptor that works better? Installing it the other way around, as I've now done, allows the caliper to sit better with respect to the chainstay however it's only going to grab the rotor with about half of the pads, which isn't ideal. Perhaps a 140 adaptor with the 160mm disc in this configuration will work better?

In your experience of pompetamine ownership, have you found an adaptor that works better?

In my experience of Pompetamine ownership, I used BR-M755 brakes which are natively IS mount :)

Fair!

Anyone else?

Loose a link of the chain.

Just a set of mudguards away from finishing my new winter rig

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Finally put a group on and roughly cabled my Orbit America.

Thoughts:

1. The gear outers rise sharply up out of the shifters. Is this normal? I have to put quite a kink in them to get them running smoothly along the bar.
   
2. One BB cup does that horrible thing where once I tighten it past a certain point it clunks and goes one thread looser. I've tightened it up to the point just before it clunks, which is definitely under torque. I'm guessing the threads on either the cups or the frame are pooped, but they didn't look too bad. I might have cross-threaded it but haven't managed to do that ever before. Will Locktite be my best option for a bodge or should I give up and throw it all in a bin?
   

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Is there a groove to guide the cable near the hole in the shifter? On my Mirage shifters the cable wanted to stick straight out which meant the rubber hood wouldn't sit over it properly. I just pushed it down into the groove and wrapped electrical tape around a couple times. Didn't need to kink the cable to get it to sit in. This was using the Jagwire outers that have a special flexy section that goes under the bar tape.

Yeah, and that groove makes them stick out. I'm actually using proper Campag outers. I say kink, it's just a sort of sharp bend that requires a bit of force to make the cable sit flat. It'll respond to some forceful taping, but just seemed an odd exit route.

It lives!

I don't recall any BB problems, but I would say that wouldn't I?

Looks like Ultra Torque: have you had the shell faced (& chased)?

I'm quite certain I wouldn't have done: the only photo I can find is with a square taper BB fitted.

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won 12g

If that's your winter bike, what's your summer bike?

It's the one at the front. Nothing too special, but I like :)

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Yup but then I'd lose my mud clearance

The touring bikes got a new front rack, but been like that for a while. Probably going to updgrade from 105 to 6800 ultegra.

Mix of deore, lx, xt and xtr bits. Everything kindof works well, but maybe needs some even lighter gears....

Touring bike looks great, what frame is that? Been using 6800 for a few months now and still really impressed with the performance & quality.

What's the rack?

First edition Stavanger that Pelago produced. Pretty much the same geo as the current model, but smaller diameter tubes and the cantis. And lugs ofcourse.

@PhilDAS It's also Pelago, but only the stays. The platform is just some random rear rack, that had eyelets close to the same distance as the stays. Then just chopped it shorter.

Both very very nice bikes. The burls Ti is classy!

I saw the paint bubbling but it happens on aluminium frames from the white surface corrosion, not necessarily an issue so I wasn't overly concerned. I bought the frame a couple of months ago on retro bike and didn't notice the crack at the time so have no way of knowing if it was even there then. Oh well, I'll know to check next time.. I have another 90s cannondale at work I need to check asap tomorrow, it's got me worried!

Got a sweet deal on this makino frame, good replacement for my pink Maeda that have seen better days :)

nice bikes as always @pabs , I thought you'd come on NCMC this weekend?

Disc brake on an NJS frame? That'll be bankiren ;)

wow