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  • Would have thought a doweling jig would be a better choice and cheaper, out of those 2 the wolf craft one would allow you to drill through the centre of a board, the other type suits smaller pieces that fit on the base. Doweling jig is the thing though.

  • Ah yes, a dowelling jig is exactly what I need. Nice one.

  • Try and get a lip and spur wood bit to use in it, it helps to stop the jig and drill drifting when you start it.

    There are some great hard wearing water based varnishes you could use on the ply, you could also use a very fine filler for the grain, stained to match the ply. It would help the desk top stay clean.

  • Talking of grain. I only see now that the grain on the top runs counter to the lower shelves. Gah!

  • What was the thinking behind the shelf supports on the outside of the legs?

  • A general lack of thinking. The supports were just to brace the legs at first but then shelving became a requirement too.

    I could have extended the ply to cover the supports but would either have had to cut round the leg or have a bit of support showing.

    Basically making it up on the fly.

    It's kind of a trial run for a larger homework/dinner/drawing table.

  • Progress! Done the first Base on this wall, needs another 10-15mm of it then a little plaster. Lots of pointing done underneath too, took fecking ages

  • Progress! Done the first Base on this wall, needs another 10-15mm of it then a little plaster. Lots of pointing done underneath too, took fecking ages

  • Boiler/heating system knowledge needed, please! Baxi Solo 2 60 pf boiler working fine when just heating water or heating rads with all TRVs fully open, but when using them to regulate room temps the boiler cuts out and the overheat light comes on. Local plumber telling me that it needs an auto bypass valve fitting. Does this sound right? Asking as he gave some pretty shit advice about the size of a new hot water cylinder. Fanks in advance!

  • Progress! Done the first Base on this wall, needs another 10-15mm of it then a little plaster. Lots of pointing done underneath too, took fecking ages

  • Apologies,
    realise in our pre-Brexhit, post-expert World,
    no-one is meant to know anything,
    but when you have some very niche knowledge,
    that just might help someone in a dispute, it is best to pass it on.

  • Do you have at least one rad with no trv?

    If not you need to leave one fully open. Ideally the one near the thermostat.

    If you are already doing this, not a clue, sorry.

    Edit for typo

  • Yes as above, if using TRVs you need either:

    • bypass valve, or
    • one rad without a TRV or with the TRV always fully on - to save wasting energy you should have a room thermostat in this room that cuts out the central heating pump when up to temperature.
  • Thanks @Ramsaye and @BobbyBriggs for suggestions. Will try closing them off to reasonable levels and leaving one open but I think I've done that and it still overheats. May need bypass, then.

  • Perhaps if you've already done that and it still overheats, the boiler is furring up with limescale inside allowing too much pressure to build up when the house is up to temperature and hence some TRVs are closed. So it could be in need of a defurring (if such a thing is possible)?

    Although this is where my knowledge of such matters swiftly declines.

  • Cheers, this seems to turn up some stuff thats similar. At the point now though of just puckering up the £75 each for the hafele ones if I can find a supplier, seem to be the lowest profile/least obtrusive I can find.
    Might run each one as a single spur from a socket on the ring, or just use the 3 pin plug into said socket, the latter is more accessible, will run the flex behind the tile board in a conduit so could replace or remove without disturbing anything at a later date.

  • so me and @princeperch of this parish installed a wood burner in my place last weekend.

    i had the option of getting up onto the roof and putting the liner in but for the marginal difference in cost between paying a bloke and hiring the ladders it was an easy decision to go with a roofer and send him up there. he was shoving the liner down whilst we were pulling and sending signals back to the guy on the roof. we had a few nervous moments when the liner got stuck but it was a relief getting it all the way down. the living room looked like a bomb hit it afterwards.

    anyway learnt a lot and had a lot of fun in the process. just need to get building control in to sign it off. nevertheless it was well worth the effort and i'm enjoying the wood burner. any questions / advice @princeperch is the man.

  • plus pics


    6 Attachments

    • carrying it up.JPG
    • finished.JPG
    • the breakthrough.JPG
    • the first cut.JPG
    • wrestling the snake.JPG
    • putting the hat on.JPG
  • We need pictures.

  • i attached them above...are they not working? obviously not i guess....

  • pics are working...

  • Who did you use to install the liner, how much did they charge and would you recommend them?

  • well when you say install the liner...my roofer (keith 07939312173) was on the roof feeding it down the chimney and me and @princeperch were pulling it down. keith then fitted the cowl on the chimney pot whilst he was up there. princeperch and i fitted the liner to the stove and did the rest.
    i'd highly recommend keith. everyone else i tried was giving me a hard time saying it had to be done with scaffolding and i was getting crazy prices for that.
    keith had no issue with running it up on ladders and was a really decent bloke who didn't complain or give me any grief whatsoever. more than happy to help out and hung around for a chat afterwards a well. he charged £80 for the hour or so it took. well worth the money

  • he's leyton based, so areas around there

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Home DIY

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