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hippy-
There's a special tool that would be handy for building up the wheel from the bead side but it's not essential. Once the nipples are on the spokes, a standard spoke wrench works fine for tensioning on the exposed square drive.
For the build up, I pushed the torx head into a piece of thin PVC tubing which enabled me to get the nipples through the rim and started. Or you could screw a spoke into the torx side a couple of threads to get it positioned.
user69121
The 511 makes a nice stiff wheel. I've recently built a 20h front with the rim braked 511, intended for windy day duathlon use this winter. But its also going to live on the Paddy Wagon when I get the rear built.
A 23mm Conti GP4000 comes up to 25.6mm and handles cross or gusty winds really well. I can't comment on durability as I've only done 150km on it but it's a stiff rim which was flat and round out the box and the wheel hasn't needed any re-truieng after some pothole bashing. There no sign of the weld joint area, either visually or when trueing, on the brake track, so you would never find it with a disc rim.
Alloy prolock Squorx nipples and reinforcement washers are supplied. The nipples thread on quite a long way, so there's plenty of thread through the seat which should stop any breakages. Here's a DT 14mm brass nipple and 15mm squorx both fully threaded onto a spoke.