Dynamo Lights

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yellow-Pro-Adjustable-Automatic-Wire-Cable-Cutter-Stripper-Crimper-Plier-DCUK-/401130626676?hash=item5d653f9e74:g:K6QAAOSwbYZXUGk3

Thinking about doing this, but is the light well sealed enough? Bit concerned about water running into the cable holes with it upside down...

I am sure a bit of silicone sealant would make a permanent fix.

Instructions advice not to install lights upside down, but here there is little to no rain on summer, and I'm not riding at night on winter. That home silicone could work since cable entries have already a nice seal.

Anyway the whole point of doing this was to:
1- Get light closer to me, to be able to point it up/down easier if I was blinding oncoming traffic (no car flashed me to complain about it)
2- Get light higher to avoid creating a shadow with the front tire.

But the only good reason to do so, is if your fork doesn't have a hole to install it (most disc only forks doesn't) Also it prevented me from trying to use an small handlebar bag.

Be careful, you'll find you get very little shadow on dips in the road so can't see potholes etc as clearly.

Yes I've read here about it. There's about 7cm of difference between fork position and actual handlebar position, don't think its making so much difference on shadow casting since I didn't have any problems detecting potholes on the 400/600/1000 brevets. Anyway on important descents I'm using a helmet light to be more confident. I might get it back to the fork just to try out some small handlebar bags

Edit: I think the pothole shadow problem is not so important here in Spain on most roads, because most of our roads are not pitch-black, but a tone of grey. I remember @CarlosBI telling me that riding at night over wet black asphalt its like riding without lights... you can't see a thing! from his TransAm experience, and the roads around his home at Basque Country. I still need to do some practical tests, I remember two new roads that are black and I couldn't see much but knowing they were recently paved I wasn't fearing any obstacle, but on other really old ones I could even ride without a light... just with moon's light was enough

It's dynamo time again for my commuter and I'm having the annual issue of getting the light fitted without it fouling the cables.

It pushes the gear cables out of place which then rub against the front canti cable causing brake rub.

A you can see I've already tried using a longer bracket. Has anyone got any good tips for avoiding this? All the solutions I can think of involve ££ so thought I'd ask first.

Mounting to the brake boss is possible but risks water damaging the light, a front rack might give me more mounting points, or a smaller headlight. Not sure what's best, maybe mini V brakes?

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Side view

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get a nitto rack, the m12, then mount light to the left or right of that. M12 fits to to the canti mounts and fork, what I'm planning to do with mine.
Also gives you a space to put a little bag on the front

Thanks. Mounted on the carbon brake bosses, I'm not sure I'd want to put much weight on the rack apart from the light. It might be the best solution though. I cant find any affordable racks that fit at the dropout.

£55 from Velovitality

In the end I've gone all Euro after I realised that rear brake to right hand cabling would solve the issue.

.

I would just re-do my brake and gear cables so they weren't in the way. If they were all a bit longer you would probably get the clearance.

I think this will depend on where the capacitor is, the capacitor for my rear light is inside the light itself so there is no way to modify it. If the capacitor is separate you should be able to short it out with a switch or by putting something metal (i.e. your keys) across an exposed section of each wire.

If I want a frame to be accommodating to dynamo lights (including an igaro d1) - what should it look like? Holes/mounts, cable guides? Where and what?

Supernova say that draining the cap in the E3 is damaging, so maybe check the net to see if it has been done before for your light.

They could be lying, of course.

Light...

Supernova E3 pure vs B&M luxos vs B&M cyo premium?
Hub will be SP-8

Knowledge base, what doth thou recommend?

What's the use? B&M IQ Cyo T Premium Senso+ is what I use every day, it's great. I have an IQ-X on my audax bike, it's also great. If you want charging, get an igaro instead.

General use/distance/off road.
Not fussed about charging, but reliability in crap conditions is a must. Mad crazy lumens don't bother me either, but a good light spread would be nice.

The B&M IQ Cyo blah blah has been bomb proof and I haven't heard anyone having issues with it like the Luxos. The IQ-X is new, so problems may arise later, but it can be mounted upside down without new hardware. The light spread is (apparently) not as good as the Luxos, but it didn't seem to be a problem when coming off the Chiltern ridge at 30mph down dark lanes!
RIP Bunny that froze in my headlight...

Shit...that IQ-X might have to be it. The light will have to be mounted upside down on a rack. Sucks we can't really physically inspect the lights before buying.

There are other lights you can mount upside down too - the SON eDelux and some supernova lights are among them. I've actually got the IQ Cyo mounted on the front of a Soma Porteur from a downward facing bolt (by way of a bodged bracket). It's not a deal breaker, you just need to do some homework. If you want to see either set up let me know and I can drop by (if you're still at Evans Mortimer St).

Bro do u even zip tie?

the last refuge of a desperate man

(or perhaps the sensible option, ignored by naive fool)

That would be pretty amazing of you.

It'll be going on this, and I don't want to regret the setup as I'm pretty keen to get well even lighting spread out of it. It'll replace the Hope light.