Cannondale F1000 Caad 4 revival project - Headshok Fatty D Service / Part Repair

I found this on Belfast gumtree. I've been lusting after a vintage Cannondale for a while.

I picked it up after its been lingering for a while, lots of rusty bolts, bb is shot, headset is also bolloxed. And the rear quick release is jammed in the open position. How on earth....

It's been well used, the fork will need a service (which I will attempt) and the front wheel is a replacement pos. The rear isn't original either. And the left coda crank is a shimano 600 now...

But there are no cracks, disc tabs, it has an original xtr rear mech, LX front, shifts ok, and a lovely reptilian fade paint job.

It's an M so perhaps too big for me, but I'll get it back to working order, put a shorter stem on and go throw around a bit on the Belfast trail areas.

####Step 1: Jwestland gets Plus Gas and takes it apart...

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Serious project! Keen to see this resurrection

The fork. Fatty D, I believe it doesn't need cannondale specific tools.

I'm expecting the rust pixies everywhere...

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Should I be worried about bubbles under paint? (See pic). Fork and bb stuck, I'll try soaking in anti seize if no joy bike shop it is.

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Oxidisation under the paint. Wouldn't worry about it. You've got bigger problems.

You know the fork is a press fit, right? You hammer it out. With a special tool :)

The lower bearing stays on the steerer whilst the top bearing stays in the cup.

You then convince the lower bearing to leave any way you can :)

I've a copy of the profannisaurus handy for the bearings ;)

What is the tool called? I better check they have it then.

The bb is also stuck, is it ok to use cola and hot water? I don't want to damage the paint.

(Also, so frame, many water, much puddles...)

http://jumpsport.cz/media/files/4_HeadShok-Fork-pages(1).pdf some diagrams and tool numbers... the install tool is basically a pipe with the right diameter. If the bearings are rusted shut though... :/

And...
http://kearnsafix.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/rebuild-of-cannondale-headshok-els.html

Headset bearings size: Outside 50,8mm
Inner diameter 39,6mm ( inch size is 1,56 )

the install tool is basically a pipe with the right diameter. If the bearings are rusted shut though... :/

Yep. It's called Ernie :) You can use something else; thick PVC pipe for example. Anything that spreads the load across the top of the steerer but doesn't bash whatever the lockout dial / button is attached to.

Don't worry about the headset bearings - they are easy to get off regardless of how rusted up they area.

The bb is also stuck, is it ok to use cola and hot water? I don't want to damage the paint.

How stuck? Have you resorted to bolting the tool on and using a huge breaker bar?

If not try that. Easier with the wheels on. Next, clamp the tool in a bench vice and turn the frame....

No bench vice alas... I've applied "please" and 100 kg of manfriend on top.

But there's a bicycle workshop here, I know the guy so I can ask him if I can borrow or rent some tool :)

No yellow fork boots anywhere it had two holes so off it went :(

eBay kleinanzeigen and markplaats have stems, and there's a German 'dale shop that has needle bearings etc.

Hi rust...

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That might be ok. The race looks alright. The steerer looks reasonable - it can tolerate a bit of corrosion.

The critical thing is whether there is rust on the surfaces below the races.

That said, roll up that o-ring and check the interface between the steerer and the fork crown. That's also a press fit - of the industrial variety - and in this case it's a steel press fit in to alu which can be weakened by corrosion.

Sub'd, looks like a fun restoration, any pictures of how you get on with the headshok would be great as I recently picked up a similar Dale, a 1996 USA Olympic Volvo Team edition F700, but the headshok has loads of play and from what I've read they're a pig to fix! It's one of these...

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USA Olympic Volvo Team edition F700, but the headshok has loads of play and from what I've read they're a pig to fix!

Yeah, I mean, it's like someone on here knows how to fix them and has all the tools...

You hurt Howard feelz I think :P

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/232081/

But perhaps my musings can add to his very good musings.

Apologies Howard, I'll definitely pick your brains if I'm forgiven... Would be great to get that F700 going.

Wow, what a saga... 10/10.

Anyways good luck and I will post whatever I find/use here, so it will be easy for you to find things to buy (unless you are near Howard and can borrow ;)

And nice biek!

Roit, so the Super Fatty D tools are listed as:

HD136/
Tool, HeadShok outer cap pin
http://www.cannondalespares.com/Cannondale-Headshok-Outer-Cap-Pin-Tool--HD136/product_detail/3-40526

Looks like something a pin spanner can do, which is a lot cheaper. Though you have to be careful not to slip and damage the holes!

HDTL149/
Tool, HeadShok fork installation
http://www.cannondaleexperts.com/Cannondale-Headshok-Fork-Installation-Tool--HDTL149_p_4276.html
Not mentioned on the "diy" lists, do I really need it?

KT016/
Tool, HeadShok bearing reset
http://www.cannondalespares.com/Cannondale-Headshok-Bearing-Reset-Tool--KT016/product_detail/3-40531
Sexy looking, but do I really need it?

KT020/
Kit, Lefty Steerer install (also for Fattys)
http://www.cannondaleexperts.com/Cannondale-Ernie-Lefty-Steerer-Tube-Install-Tool--KT020_p_125.html
@Howard is this where a thick pipe will do? What diameter do I need to go for? :D

KH031/
Super castle tool
http://www.cannondaleexperts.com/Cannondale-Super-Castle-Lefty-Headshok-Cartridge-Removal-Tool--KH031_p_101.html
"When removing the Lefty cartridge, make sure you have removed the preload air pressure from the fork. Don't worry, you only need to get punched in the face once with a cartridge to remember forever."
LOL
OK no way around this. But some people say that the newer castle tool doesn't fit old forks, it's too long! So I may have to hack this or get a used one.

Alas I am nowhere near Howard...

Stuffs I can borrow if needed: Headset press (not for 1.5" forks though hrmpf), various park tools and a HOUZAN!!! cable cutter and I have a borrow wheel building stand to true the rear wheel if needed :D

HD136/

Tool, HeadShok outer cap pin
cannondalespares.com/Cannonda­le-Headshok-Outer-Cap-Pin-Tool--HD136/pr­oduct_detail/3-40526

Pinspanner.

HDTL149/
Tool, HeadShok fork installation
cannondaleexperts.com/Cannond­ale-Headshok-Fork-Installation-Tool--HDT­L149_p_4276.html
Not mentioned on the "diy" lists, do I really need it?

Not needed - correctly sized pipe will do.

KT016/
Tool, HeadShok bearing reset
cannondalespares.com/Cannonda­le-Headshok-Bearing-Reset-Tool--KT016/pr­oduct_detail/3-40531
Sexy looking, but do I really need it?

Not needed.

KT020/
Kit, Lefty Steerer install (also for Fattys)
cannondaleexperts.com/Cannond­ale-Ernie-Lefty-Steerer-Tube-Install-Too­l--KT020_p_125.html
@Howard is this where a thick pipe will do? What diameter do I need to go for? :D

Yes, chunky PVC pipe. Take the lockout dial off. Diameter needs to be roughly the same as the steerer. Thickness - thicker the better, but not so thick it will transmit force through whatever gubbins the lockout dial / nob attaches to.

KH031/
Super castle tool
cannondaleexperts.com/Cannond­ale-Super-Castle-Lefty-Headshok-Cartridg­e-Removal-Tool--KH031_p_101.html
"When removing the Lefty cartridge, make sure you have removed the preload air pressure from the fork. Don't worry, you only need to get punched in the face once with a cartridge to remember forever."
LOL
OK no way around this. But some people say that the newer castle tool doesn't fit old forks, it's too long! So I may have to hack this or get a used one.

You will need this.

Stuffs I can borrow if needed: Headset press (not for 1.5" forks though hrmpf)

You won't need a headset press - the cups should be fine.

Grand tx, I better go get the castlenut tool then.

Where did you get yours? qwertycycles is sold out, and getting it from Germany is going to be £40 due to shipping. Ouch :(

Nothing on EvilBay either.

Peeked under the o-ring, it doesn't look corroded under it and there's grease under it. Good...

Found a 70mm air cylinder kit in the USA if it has to get that far.

Where did you get yours? qwertycycles is sold out, and getting it from Germany is going to be £40 due to shipping. Ouch :(

CSG have dropped the ball on stock this year. I just had to order a new steerer and stem for my F-Si...from Germany. Le sigh.

cannondalespares.com might have one, but having a quick look I couldn't see one.

Scheissendreck and all that O_o
This is why people just throw things away...labour is expensive and so are tools.

Cannondale experts has one, i but it's still going to be £££. Can it be ghettohacked by getting a motorcycle or some other castle tool and gluing it on to something? As long as the widths match?

Or is there no standard on castle tools?

Yes - this is why these things get chucked.

So, no, it can't be hacked. The design is unique. I've heard people have used very large 90 deg needle pliers (!) but that just leaves with you with a scratched damper shaft which is fatal.

Your options now:

• Wait for stock (october?)
  
• Post to these guys: http://xodusbikeworks.co.uk/servicing/
  
• Get someone in Germany to send you one
  

I know people in Germany and The Netherlands and the USA, I can have a dig around.

That shop looks good. All adds up, posting it there, service and the inevitable bust parts. But if the tool costs £45 no matter what I do, add £20 postage back an forth...perhaps it will work out in the end.

Depends on how much you value the paint.

You can pick up working used forks for £100 or so. But the paint won't match...

I reckon a full rebuild will set you back around £150 and some P&P.

Just spoke to a local shop they will try to source the tool. They've not worked on forks this old however, only on new ones so the person I spoke too said they can't do it.