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• #2
Any 2 part metal filler should work. Once cured it will withstand the rigours of powder coating piece of piss.
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• #3
+1 any conductive filler that will not release gases when cured and then put in the oven.
Possibly a metal/epoxy type of thing. -
• #4
I like to release gases
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• #5
fnarrrrrrt.
I have some brass filler rod you can have if you have means to get it hot enough gingerchris. (oxy-acetylene, propane, ??)
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• #6
provenrad - thanks for the offer but I don't have any kind of equipment for getting it hot enough.
Do you guys have any recommendations of product names I should be looking for? I saw some stuff called Thermobond 3 but it needs to be cured at a higher temp than I can do, even by releasing my gases. Is this going to be the case with all fillers?
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• #7
depending on where you're getting it coated they might be able to do it for you, I'm think mario vaz down in hither green will do it for you too, and will probably be one of the cheapest.
Why were you sawing off the braze ons :(
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• #8
Like I said - I'm an idiot. But I'm learning!
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• #9
What temperature does powdercoat bake at?
If you can find a proper old car bodyshop or classic car place, they might have some old-timer that still knows how to lead-fill. Lead melts at 375 degrees so it could be an option.
My Morris Minor had at least an inch of lead around the rear screen, from the factory. Who says old cars were well built?
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• #10
Do a search on Google using "epoxy resin with metal".
Silver solder will be better than brazing
Lead repair you need a butane torch, flux, and some Lead.
Clean the area, put some flux on, heat the area gently, more flux, remove butane torch and then put the lead on . Don't heat the lead with the torch let the heat in the frame melt the lead.
Allow to cool slowly, wash flux residue off, file and smooth down the solder. -
• #11
Edit last word should be lead not solder
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• #12
Fantastic, thanks for the advice lot14
Approaching silver soldering as a complete novice, what equipment do I need to get hold of? Is it easy enough to get the hang of?
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• #13
Ginger Chris,
You have a private reply but this is a good site for general info and supply of what is needed. -
• #14
bump for a dent to alu.
anything that can be used to fill a small dent/ding and then painted oveR?
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• #15
Straight epoxy resin is fine for painting, not sure about powder coating though.
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• #16
bump for a dent to alu.
anything that can be used to fill a small dent/ding and then painted oveR?
This, any thoughts for filling an alu frame for powder coating on the cheap?
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• #17
Yeah, if you can find a classic car restoration place they've probably got... oh wait, I said that four years ago, and the old-timer is probably retired now.
Find out how to do lead-loading, or find some high-temperature epoxy resin. Or ask your powdercoater.
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• #18
Bear in mind that that you don't just have to contend with the heat but also the shot/bead blasting that the finisher will often insist on before work commences.
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• #19
Thread resurrection, - has anyone discovered a filler for using with powdercoating? Apparently JB Weld, Thermobond 3 and other similar metal epoxies have various issues.
looking to cover some minor pitting in a steel frame
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• #20
Spray.bike do one; can't vouch for it but their paint is very good.
I'm a complete beginner (/idiot) and have made a couple of deep scratches in my frame whilst sawing off some braze ons. I'd like to get the frame powder coated in future but I'm aware that normal filler will not survive the powder coating process.
From searching on here it looks like there are some kinds of metal filler that can be used, but I can't find any specific product names. Does anyone know of anything I can use to smooth out these gashes that would survive the heat of a powder coat? Or am I better off looking for someone to do some brazing instead?