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• #6052
I put a small rack and mounted a the same basket on my macho man. I know you can't use a rack like this though.
Really so much better than the strut and bar clamp that it comes with.
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• #6053
I had a rack somewhat like that;
The problems with it were:
- My fork has no hole tapped in the front, so the crown support tab had to run over the fender through to the back
- The rack (esp. the part nearest the canti posts) would flex like crazy with anything heavier than a sixer of beer on it
- One NYC winter was enough to crack the alloy mounting tabs at the canti posts and render the thing truly useless
- It was excellent at collecting snow to pack around my front brake
- It wasn't even very light
Installing the Wald basket as it comes was literally an upgrade on every level. The handlebar tabs are so sturdy, they create a really stiff link that you can hang a shitload of weight from. The struts have been redesigned enough times at this point that Wald have pretty much no competition making these things.
Let me guess; is your basket is zip-tied to your rack, Prolly-style?
- My fork has no hole tapped in the front, so the crown support tab had to run over the fender through to the back
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• #6054
I have a new style Wald and i've used the old ones too, i know the difference is night and day, mine is zip tied on yes.
I can see how snow is a problem, I was only thinking for you that running a strut to your bosses would result in a stiffer basket as its shorter supports. I found mine a bit wobbly compared to the rack mount.
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• #6055
This seems super-solid, even over the potholes - the weight of it also increased the stability of the steering.
Shorter struts would definitely look better, I'd just prefer to use a mid-fork mount as it wouldn't involve any bends or adaptor pieces (these are often the weak spots). -
• #6056
My raw pomp frame just shipped - read through a lot of this thread in anticipation. Got a few questions after reading through (first time building a bike)
I'm wondering what kind of wheels to get? I'm stuck between track wheels or wider cyclocross (35mm). Is it wasteful to get track wheels on a pompino frame blessed with so much clearance? I can't imagine doing much off-road but I want to have one bike that can do all - interested in being able to use it as a touring bike (rough paths, grass, snow that kind of thing).
If you think I should get 35mm wheelset which 35mm wheels (they've got to be all silver) + tyres (I've resigned that these have to be black) would be good for this? I'm considering building with H Plus Son Archetypes but I have no experience in wheelbuilding, and I have no idea how much this will end up costing me in parts and tools and failed attempts etc. I'm also thinking of the Continental Cyclocross Speed, these look good, except I'd want something with more puncture protection.
Also am I right in that the Alfine at £63.54 shipped is still the best value crankset?
I'd appreciate any help, as I'm pretty lost
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• #6057
Go wide and stick 35mm tyres on it. Kojaks would be good.
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• #6058
Are you in London? I have a pair of those conti tyres, barely used. You can have them for nada.
I bought a Sora triple for 40 quid brand new. Put a superstar narrow wide on.
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• #6059
Um no I'm not in London (Cambridge) but for free tyres I am! I'll pm you :-)
Did you take the other two rings off then? Does it work out cheaper doing that?
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• #6060
I think the middle on a triple is 39t and it's 3/32 chain (remember that for your rear cog/freewheel). So it'd be the cost of that chainset plus single chainring bolts.
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• #6061
ah right yeah I've already bought a 1/8" chain (I've also got a Miche Primato Advanced but I'm now looking for something a bit cheaper so returning it).
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• #6062
If you've got chainset and chain, stick with that?
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• #6063
Was thinking of Kojaks for my Pompino but was not sure if I would still be able to fit full mudguards.
Any ideas?
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• #6064
35mm + guards on my V2. Don't the newer ones have more clearance?
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• #6065
Thanks. I think mine's a V3 if the new one is a V4. I'll give them a try.
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• #6066
A google image search using the terms 'butterfly pompino' is nsfw btw.
Edit: [uses google translate] oic.
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• #6067
One more question if you don't mind... How wide is that wald basket and how wide are your bars? According to the wald specs the basket is 38cm wide, and I measured the gap between my (42 cm) drops to be approximately 38cm. A bit tight!
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• #6068
When mine is in summer touring mode I have some 42c Schwalbe marathon things with reflective sidewalls. So definitely room on the v4 for 35c plus guards I'd say.
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• #6069
I was just about to order a pair of 35 mm Kojaks but realised Rigida Chrina rims only have a 13 mm internal width so aren't really suited to wider tyres. I might even be pushing it with 28 mm that I'm currently running.
Any recommendations for a nice 28 mm tyre like the Kojak.
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• #6070
My rims that have the 42c tyres are only 13mm internal width, no issues whatsoever. Rode a cross race yesterday on the same rims but with 33c cross tyres and only rolled the tyre once because I was being an idiot.
Wider rims are nicer but if you don't have them then it won't really limit you on tyres too greatly, after all 5/10/15 years ago narrow rims were the only rims and people still rode cross and mtb on them.
Tl;dr get the 35c kojaks it will be okay. Once they're on the rim they'll probably measure closer to 30c anyway
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• #6071
Thanks. So the chance of rolling one of these tyres off the rim on a fast corner, roundabout etc is slim? Longer term ie when the rims needs replacing I'll use wider poo refine rims
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• #6072
Anyone got a small pompino they're lookin to shift?
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• #6073
I'm running 54c tyres on 17mm internal rims. It's fine as long as you're running enough pressure that the sidewalls don't collapse when you lean.
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• #6074
You lean???
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• #6075
Yes, on corners and roundabouts.
I'm not in a city so can maintain good speed on my commutes.
It's paint, I designed and masked it.