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• #8177
Normally they come out the next day
They are v goood. -
• #8178
@Dammit @CYOA @Tenderloin I've a similar problem so brought a replacement flush push button but that didn't fix the issue, It seems it is the flush unit that needs replacing. I have a replacement unit and donut so just need someone to pop off the cistern and replace it it for me.
TLDNR - does anyone have a number for a South London plumber to do a job that I don't want to fuck up?
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• #8180
Me again! Anyone have a poured floor? Not looking for polished concrete but something with a bit more warmth/give, e.g. soft resin or rubber. Personal experiences?
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• #8181
go forbo (linoleum)
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• #8183
Guys, siphons are just too cheap for you to spend time worrying about what's wrong. Just buy a new one. You can easily fit this stuff yourselves, no need for pros.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/opella-dual-flush-siphon/20824 -
• #8184
What's the best way to prep and paint this external drainpipe?
2 Attachments
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• #8186
I've been meaning to get round to re-laying the parquet (dry) in herringbone to see if I have enough to stick it down.
One of the things that has been putting me off is that the flat is on the first floor and the mitre saw is in the garage - so I decided to make a jig from some offcuts that was the width of the hall, and use that for fit-up right next to the saw:
At this point I was happy that I'd got the size of the side-blocks correct, so made a simple end-stop on the saw, and cut 200 blocks:
This pile got a LOT bigger:
And finally I had it all laid out dry - I do have enough.
All that needs to happen now is a final cleaning of the blocks, and a lot of glue.
That can wait until I get back from travelling.
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• #8187
Strong, strong work. Very impressive.
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• #8188
Take your time, there's no need to rush these jobs.
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• #8189
That place is going to look marvellous.
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• #8190
I had to take a kitchen cabinet off my wall so the boiler could be serviced, now I can't get the bugger back on. I have these brackets which locate onto hooks on the wall. The brackets are screwed into the top back corner of the cabinet and the hook part protrudes through the back of the cabinet.
The trouble is they seem to angle slightly downwards which means that when I try and hang the cupboard, the top of it is hitting the plinth above before I can get it hooked onto the brackets.
The top screw moves the hook in and out and I was hoping that the bottom screw would change the angle but it seems to do bugger all. Any suggestions?
1 Attachment
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• #8191
Made-to-measure mirrors & installation in North London - Does anyone have a recommendation? (Am after a single sheet approx. 7'8" x 4'6" to cover a wall)
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• #8192
They are horrible and only useful in perfect conditions. Try releasing the hook completely, having an assistant hold the cupboard in place then pass the hook through the back of the cupboard onto the screw and assemble the fixture inside the cabinet with the cab in place.
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• #8193
A lot of local glaziers have some basic installation capacities. Make you you don't give them measurements if they are supplying and fitting, they need to measure or better still template it themselves. Please stop using imperial measurements, I am an old man and decimalisation happened when I was 2 :)
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• #8195
hallelujah!!!!!!!11111111
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• #8197
Cheers, that may be an option, although space is pretty limited to fit two people.
@diable Good question. Thinking back, I had to take it off the unit to get it off the wall, which makes me think I'm not getting it back on the wall now it's reattached to the unit.
I have a sneaking suspicion that the cornice style thing above that is stopping the hooks locating was installed after the cupboard was on the wall. The caulk between that and the tiles stops where the cupboard was installed.
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• #8198
Very smart. I wish the people on my street took similar care of their properties.
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• #8199
Wire brush
Current paint may well be lead-based. Limit dust by sanding wet or by using a sander with built-in extraction. Wear a mask. Wash hands and arms thoroughly before eating, or asap to avoid leaving toxic dust on doorhandles etc.
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• #8200
Thought this might be a good place to ask.
I’ve inherited an old workmate which still functions and has sentimental value. Unfortunately, the top (aka wooden vice jaws) is on its last legs.
Similar to this one:
I’m after a replacement top. I considered making one, but replacement tops seem to be c£25-35 (model dependent) … which probably = cost of making one.
My question is this:
A whole cheapo folding workmate is only £25 posted:
Assuming the top/jaws fit, can anyone think of another use for the cheapo folding Workmate sans top/jaws?
I wondered about a table or desk (not sure if we need one).... or just another surface any other thoughts?
I'd put money on the membrane in your siphon being moth-eaten (aquatic moths?), leading to a weak vacuum.
Replace the whole unit with a new one, they are cheap.