• I just resigned to the fact that unless you're buying a full carbon rim, you may aswell just take a silver brake surface. I'm in the process of buying wheel components to build and took @amey advice on going for some DT Swiss R460. Wide enough, light enough, cheap enough, and most importantly, removable decals.

    My original thought was a Mavic Open Pro - they're so bullet proof and just look great - they're just too thin for a nice 25/28mm tyre though.

    What's your main goal for the wheelset? Performance? Weight saving? Longevity?
    I've heard a lot of stories how the Pacenti SL's and H+Son Archetypes are basically made of cheese and need re-rimming after 1000km

  • Yeah I was to, and if I'm taking a silver brake track, why not a full silver rim - so in my case most likely a TB14...

    I didn't look too much at Pacenti as all I've heard and read is that spokes pull through them and they crack... It seems now though that both SL's and Archetypes have had their faults addressed and builders are using them again without (as many) issues.

    Ultimate goal is shallow rimmed, strong, 'fit and forget neo-retro' with shouty freehub that will still look good in a year or so...

    CSS is an option for keeping the brake surface grey, but for some reason they anodise the rest of the rim black - I'd remedy this by painting the rim grey to match the sidewall (I'd go to that length!) - I'd spring for these but would like to hear from someone who has used a pair for an extended period of time... there is also the possible issue of trying to get hold of these rims in a few years if one needs replacing, perhaps another pro for the H+Son option as they seem readily available.

    Anyone know if I have missed any other CSS/treated 700c grey/black wide rim on the market?

    Cheers,
    Matt

  • CSS is an option for keeping the brake surface grey, but for some reason they anodise the rest of the rim black

    Because the CSS coating is darker than hard anodising, black dyed soft anodising is a closer colour match. Soft anodising on the spoke bed is considered better by some as it doesn't crack as easily as hard anodising. Microcracks in hard anodising around the spoke holes can be an initiation site for stress corrosion cracking through the base material.

    As far as being tarty is concerned, why not just be true to the retro look. Anodised rims didn't magically stay grey back in the olden days, they got the colour scrubbed off by the brake blocks just like they do now, so tatty rims are period-correct :-)

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