Any question answered...

I have the relevant bits, trying to drill through this with my battery powered electric drill is going to be a futile and frustrating exercise?

Should be easy with some HSS drill bits.

Anyone have any Wireless router recommendations?
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/136738/?offset=400#comment13137009

Remove the hard drive and destroy that in any manner you see fit. Recycle everything else.

Edit - That was supposed to be in reply to @fredtc on the prev page.

It broke, so I can't turn it on and check all the data is wiped.

Options:

1: Pull the disc out, destroy it with extreme prejudice, and send the rest to the recycler

2: Pull the disc out and use a cheap USB caddy to hook it up to another machine as an external drive, do a proper wipe, reinsert disc and send the lot to the recycler

3: If the disc is OK and something else is broken, it's trash anyway so have fun with the hammer.

Also just realised that if you take the drive out there's no need to destroy it. Although that does deprive you of the fun.

Has anyone drilled through aluminium sheet like this before with relative ease?

The problem is not in getting the drill through, it's in getting it to slow down when it hooks up on the back side. Drilling circular holes in thin sheet needs care and preferably a pillar drill. Clamp the sheet down to a backing board and be ready for the drill to get pulled away from you as it breaks through. Punching would be better, but you probably don't want to spend £30 on a tool

a 28 waist

A what now? Did you misspell wrist O.o

@J0nathan use a punch to mark the centre of your hole otherwise the bit will walk all over the surface. Clamping the material between 2 pieces of wood will help get a cleaner hole and less deformation.

I've been in the workshop when someone hasn't clamped a thin pcb down properly when drilling and seen the resultant half severed finger.

@J0nathan please don't recreate that

Be sure to clamp the sheet, don't try and hold it by hand. You don't want a thin piece of metal spinning round like a bacon slicer ...

Wanting new pedals and foot retention for daily riding. What does everyone find best ? BMX flats with horizontal straps or pedals,cages,straps such as Mks? Is there much difference ?

To add my 2 cents to the multiple replies;

any self tapping wood screw will go through thin sheet alu, and if it's not for some kind of precision engineered work of art (which it doesn't seem to be) then I think you'll be able to live with the slightly ragged hole this might make on the inside... so I personally wouldn't bother fucking about with clamps or presses but maybe I'm a horrifically lazy cunt.

http://holdfastordie.com/

Thanks for all the drilling and punching replies. I've also been googling around to see if there are tools I can use locally, and I found this place, so I might just take it there: http://www.blackhorseworkshop.co.uk/tools/

I want to set up a direct debit really quickly to take advantage of a cashback deal a bank is offering.

What is the fastest way to do this?

I thought charities, but then thought set up may take a while.

Regardless I've set up one for UNICEF (because they're a great organisation) but noticed their first due date won't be until almost the end of the month.

Any other thoughts?

Cheers

Chainrings for dura ace fc-7410 crank, double (130bcd)?

TA Alize look nice and not ridiculous money. The chainset I want to replace has Stronglight CNC rings, can't remember the model name but they are 110 bcd so nfu for new crank.

Currently running 48/34. I had in mind some kind of compact compact set up; maybe the gap between 50-34 was annoying me or something. In practice, means that I am down the small side of the block most of the time so may go to a more conventional 50/34.

This bike is going to be for future audax and light touring adventures so looking more for spinny than hero gears. Only problem is can't find TA Alize in anything smaller than 4x for the inner ring.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Chainrings for dura ace fc-7410 crank, double (130bcd)?...may go to a more conventional 50/34.

Any suggestions?

The most obvious one is that the smallest inner ring you can use with those cranks is 38T

Has anyone seen, got a link or an image of a bike with just a fork that has been motoreen'd? I thought he said @Roboto had something but I could be wrong.

Ah; thanks.

I did suddenly find myself wondering what the lower limit was. The cassette has 32 at the big end so 38/32 could be adequate.

But 38/50... Not a big enough gap for an xt front mech?

Or get a triple.

Or live with the flexy Stronglight crank.

I'd better go check some gear inch calcs.

Or live with the flexy Stronglight crank.

7410 is going to be just as bendy as anything Stronglight have made recently. If you really need a stiffer crank (you don't, but whatevs), get a 5750 or some other HT2 crank.

Interesting. The only thing I'm bothered about is that the chainring rubs the derailleur cage when out of the saddle. Looking down, I see the chainring is moving in and out relative to seat tube. I assumed this was the fairly cheap crank flexing as this doesn't happen on my other bike which has 105 ten speed.

Maybe it's something else causing this. Frame is a surly cross check so not exactly under built.

I assumed this was the fairly cheap crank flexing

More likely the square taper axle flexing, which won't be solved by changing to 7410.

Are there any OEM front hubs for a mavic 3g trispoke?

Itching for a mini project...but originals much £££ :/

Yep. I've had mine over a year and I'm really happy with them. Here's an old pic, can probably find some better or more recent pics if you need some.

good quality silver seatposts with c. 14mm setback, 27.2mm. what options do I have? are there any good quality alu ones other than thomson, or is ti a better bet?