Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

Leave the opposite crank bolt in, insert a length of something that isn't going to compress (threaded rod off-cuts from when you made a bearing press rather than buying one), then insert a standard crank puller which will push the crank it is inserted into off the axle by loading the other crank bolt up.

This works, but speaking not as a mother, but as someone who has taken his cranks off twice a day for a week, buy the correct tool - it will make you hate life less.

I also find that it's easiest to spin the smaller part in using an 8mm allen-socket, then pull the crank arm off with an 8mm T handled allen key.

Then

Make sure not to either miss out the thin steel washer when re-fitting, or to squash it.

Or, fit two of them stacked one atop the other - one of the more bizarre things I saw recently.

In all likelihood this sort of setup seems too much to faff with, but thanks in advance for humouring me guys.

Yes - if your frame is designed for 24mm cranks, use 24mm cranks!

Yup. I'll stay on the bay looking for XTR cranks!

On the other hand, this would deffo have everything you need:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191931178376?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Amazing:

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Oh wow

excellent, i'll see what i can scrounge in my lbs

I'm looking for a Rear mech hanger for my Caad7, quick google brings me to £20 ones, anywhere i can get them cheaper? or any particular that are reccomended?

£20 is the going rate I'm afraid. The Wheels Manufacturing ones are usually recommended.

Got some new wheels...

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This.

Never skim on hanger.

Do I need round or oval cable grommets for Di2 wiring a CAAD10 Disc?
Thanks!

Ok, who has a bright idea about how I can resolve this without having to punch out the bottom bracket bearings once again?

I suspect what happened was that the Di2 wiring was installed, the seatpost was put in the frame with the battery in the post, then the wiring was taped in place inside the BB shell.

What this meant was that when I pulled the seatpost out there was not enough slack cable to allow the end of the cable to emerge from the seat tube, so the cable pulled out of the battery.

Now I can't get the cable plugged back into the battery.

So - I need to connect battery to cable inside the seat tube, or take the entire fucking crankset out again.

I'm going to have to pull the crankset aren't I.

At least I'm really very good at that now.

Have you ever thought of getting a balance bike?

Would a magnet work? Or something sticky at the end of a long stick? With the help of gravity ..

The picture isn't the best, but the coat hanger has got the cable-end quite securely, the cable is simply not long enough to emerge from the seat tube, and is secured inside the BB with a square of duct tape so can't have any more cable pulled through from the downtube.

Not a gravel bike.

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Have you considered eTap

You've possibly already pulled the cranks but I reckon you need two long bits of hanger - one to pick up the cable end and support it inside the seat tube and another with battery cable attached, may be possible to reunite both ends this way? Probably start by opening a bottle of red first.

Awesome, where are you based? Saw someone on something similar, can't be too many around

Well that's one way to stop the BB30 from clicking ...

Stupid question I should know the answer to...

I have a 56 frame 2015 supersix, and can't find the crank length anywhere...

Am I right in thinking it's a 172.5?