Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

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  • I honestly doubt 2mm is significant enough for you to notice....just go with what ever fork you would like!! Try and find some caad10 or evo form

  • Try and find some caad10 or evo form

    Caad9 is 1 1/8th - contemporary forks won't fit.

  • Moment of truth.

  • Yep. Anyone got a spider tool I can borrow? Same as the Zipp one IIRC, I have two and can find neither.

  • Also, some thoughts- I don't think it's the axle moving laterally, it's shimmed to ~0.3mm of float which is controlled by a highly compressed wave washer, and the noise and behaviour hasn't changed with different numbers of shims.

    There is slack in the drivetrain- as you push down on the pedal from a standstill you can feel this slack being taken up before you put drive through the chain, accompanied by "cra-crack!", if you back off at once and freewheel you get a "ping!" As whatever it is springs back into the "slack" condition.

    So there is something which moves under load (300 watts up I would say), and returns to its previous state at high speed when load is removed.

  • You don't feel the slack pushing forward with the left pedal. But I always push off on the right first.

  • There we go then - no rides above ftp

  • What's the difference between the left and right crank arms then? Just the power meter...?

  • I've just had a thought, when they built the bike the chainring was on the inside position, which gave a sub-optimal chainline for the higher gears, so I asked them to swap it to the outside position.

    Try as I might I cannot recall it making any noise before the ring was swapped.

    Would chainring bolts which are not torqued down enough give the symptoms and noise I outline above?

  • quite possibly

  • chainring bolts which are not torqued down enough

    I've had creaking caused by this in the past.

  • ^ same here. Copper slip outers as well as threads of chainring bolts so if there is any flex/movement under load, you won't hear it.

  • This is shimmed to "less than" 0.5mm, my guess being around the 0.3mm that the tech-doc asks for:

    https://youtu.be/mtHIiRWJnhA

  • Apologies for it being rather dark.

  • hi guyzzzz, stumbled across a very cheap r500 on ebay. low end kit on it though, just wondering if the lower spec dales are the same frame as the higher end but with diff components? if so, it is cheap enough to buy and can upgrade it a bit.

    chars

  • Cracked chain/seat stay?

    I've had a broken frame creak and crack for a couple of weeks until I discovered it.

  • Lol. I'd hope not!

    @Brameses I think there is usually a couple of different versions of forks, and the cheaper ones are known to be boat anchors. But @Howard is probably your man

  • They sure are. Great frames, if a little uncomfortable for some, mostly relating to little give in the seat post (non-compact geometry allows little seat post to show).

  • Two questions.

    1.) Just cleaning my system six I noticed the bottle cage mounts have debonded on the alu side of the frame and are loose. Is there anything I can do?

    2.) which headset bearing cover do I need for slam that stem on my trail Sl? Its a 44mm head tube can I use a system six one?

  • Just cleaning my system six I noticed the bottle cage mounts have debonded on the alu side of the frame and are loose. Is there anything I can do?

    new biek time, obvs

  • Yes there is and it's an easy diy fix, will post more details later when home.

  • Fantastic thanks James! What are you buying me?

  • i think you could stretch to buying a foffa

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Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

Posted by Avatar for MaxC @MaxC

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