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• #6552
Try and find some caad10 or evo form
Caad9 is 1 1/8th - contemporary forks won't fit.
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• #6553
Moment of truth.
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• #6554
Cra-crack!
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• #6555
Yep. Anyone got a spider tool I can borrow? Same as the Zipp one IIRC, I have two and can find neither.
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• #6556
Also, some thoughts- I don't think it's the axle moving laterally, it's shimmed to ~0.3mm of float which is controlled by a highly compressed wave washer, and the noise and behaviour hasn't changed with different numbers of shims.
There is slack in the drivetrain- as you push down on the pedal from a standstill you can feel this slack being taken up before you put drive through the chain, accompanied by "cra-crack!", if you back off at once and freewheel you get a "ping!" As whatever it is springs back into the "slack" condition.
So there is something which moves under load (300 watts up I would say), and returns to its previous state at high speed when load is removed.
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• #6557
You don't feel the slack pushing forward with the left pedal. But I always push off on the right first.
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• #6558
There we go then - no rides above ftp
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• #6559
What's the difference between the left and right crank arms then? Just the power meter...?
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• #6560
I've just had a thought, when they built the bike the chainring was on the inside position, which gave a sub-optimal chainline for the higher gears, so I asked them to swap it to the outside position.
Try as I might I cannot recall it making any noise before the ring was swapped.
Would chainring bolts which are not torqued down enough give the symptoms and noise I outline above?
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• #6561
quite possibly
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• #6562
chainring bolts which are not torqued down enough
I've had creaking caused by this in the past.
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• #6563
^ same here. Copper slip outers as well as threads of chainring bolts so if there is any flex/movement under load, you won't hear it.
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• #6564
This is shimmed to "less than" 0.5mm, my guess being around the 0.3mm that the tech-doc asks for:
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• #6565
Apologies for it being rather dark.
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• #6566
hi guyzzzz, stumbled across a very cheap r500 on ebay. low end kit on it though, just wondering if the lower spec dales are the same frame as the higher end but with diff components? if so, it is cheap enough to buy and can upgrade it a bit.
chars
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• #6567
Cracked chain/seat stay?
I've had a broken frame creak and crack for a couple of weeks until I discovered it.
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• #6569
They sure are. Great frames, if a little uncomfortable for some, mostly relating to little give in the seat post (non-compact geometry allows little seat post to show).
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• #6570
Two questions.
1.) Just cleaning my system six I noticed the bottle cage mounts have debonded on the alu side of the frame and are loose. Is there anything I can do?
2.) which headset bearing cover do I need for slam that stem on my trail Sl? Its a 44mm head tube can I use a system six one?
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• #6571
Just cleaning my system six I noticed the bottle cage mounts have debonded on the alu side of the frame and are loose. Is there anything I can do?
new biek time, obvs
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• #6572
Yes there is and it's an easy diy fix, will post more details later when home.
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• #6573
Fantastic thanks James! What are you buying me?
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• #6574
Ta
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• #6575
i think you could stretch to buying a foffa
I honestly doubt 2mm is significant enough for you to notice....just go with what ever fork you would like!! Try and find some caad10 or evo form