Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Get shimano resins innit, but not the ones beagle posted as they're for newer shimano brakes, not the older ones that TRP/Tekro use.

M515 as what he posted, what you're on about? ;)

Serious bit, I'm running Deore M615 which is the most basic of Shimano and I've looked at the compatibility with TRP and they match.

615 use the slightly more rounded ones you posted, same as old XTR and now most new shimano that ain't saint/zee, TRP/tektro use the squarer ones.

Thanks all - I'll have the Swisstop up front as I like them on my bike, and some Shimano in the back.

cc/ @snottyotter

Just installed these:

My first cantis.

Piece of piss to install tbh, easier compared to mini V which is just a clusterfuck under the name of 'low maintenance'. They feel VERY close to DA with swissstop pads. Have few questions though, whos the canti god of this parish?

@M_V likely as he's a fierce defender of all thing Cantis, I can set it up decently, but there are time they're a nightmare to stop squealing (straddle cable act like a violin), and judder (longer straddle helped but some brakes come with a fixed length).

Haha, I saw @amey post and thought about recommending you! I do love them though, I've just built myself a klunker and it's #fullcanti !

I think I'm the same as you Ed, I can set them up alright but don't see myself as an expert on them.

One bit of advice I'd gie though is that (IMO) fixed length straddles, ie these things...

...are horrible bits of kit and belong nowhere other than the bin.

alright some questions/curiosities to understand it better

1. Height of yoke, what does that affect? Its currently 2 fingers above mudguards (35mm kojaks with 45mm SKS).

2. Length of straddle cable, what does that affect? These brakes just take a standard brake cable as straddle cable.

3. Horizontal position of yoke; currently when I keep in central the left brake arm doesent move as much as right, if I keep it slightly towards right it works like charm

4. Position of barrel adjuster on straddle cable .. does it matter which side it is?

Such a surprise when I set them up yesterday given their reputation .. the power is incredible!

:-)

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Such a surprise when I set them up yesterday given their reputation .. the power is incredible!

;-)

Also they don't have/require 83 page thread.
I admit about 30% of it is images of DA caliper :P

Cantis belong on the foffa thread which is over 160 pages of shit.

Foffa has gone disc I am afraid .. cantis belong to hipster thread

Cantis thread >>>>>>>>>>>>>>

A post I wanted to make.

Lulz.

1. Supposedly the lower the yoke the more power the brake will have. In my experience it's not a night and day type change though.

2. As above, the longer the straddle, the more power. Supposedly. With cantis like those you posted I usually set the straddle length so that the bottom bit of the arm is vertical at rest. The Sheldon piece has s description of where the power is to be found in the arc of the arm I'm sure.

3. Do the arms have individual Spring tension adjusters? Are the pads set the same amount out of each arm? I'd try and use the spring tension adjusters to balance the arms with the yoke central. That said I prefer yokes that don't fix to the straddle cable as moving it slightly is a quick and easy way to balance the caliper and allows the brake to self balance to a degree.

4. No idea. Someone probably has a stupid rule about it though. If you can reach it while riding, put it on whichever side you'll find comfortable to adjust it with.

Foffa disc

But still quill stems. Never ceases to amaze.

It's easy to get cantis set up to be powerful. The challenge comes when you want enough clearance between the brake block and the rim to stop mud fouling the wheel on each revolution, i.e. what you need in cyclocross in a UK winter. Then it becomes a black art...

I find quite the opposite, far easier to get good rim clearance while maintaining a decent amount of lever travel on cantis than with Vs.

Has anyone tried the cheaper Shimano road discs (the RS505) and can comment on whether they are worth it? Saw a review saying shifting suffered, so I am now torn between (1) TRP hy-rd (so I can use existing 105 shifters); (2) the ST505s and see how the braking is; or (3) the ST685s?

This will be for an everyday / winter / allroad type bike, so I am torn between durability / cost / function. Difficult

I liked the RS505 because the hood is thinner than the RS685, which is uncomfortably thick.

Review saying the opposite, pop into a bike shop and take them out for a test ride, they brakes as good as the RS785.

Thanks Ed - good idea, I will have a look see what current bikes use each system. If I can be persuaded to go RS505 I'd like to, as this will be a commuting bike so want to avoid the flashier options where possible. (I see the irony in this given I could go for the cheaper TRP brakes, but meh)

I only have the caliper BR-RS505:

which is working really well.

It seems to me that there are only cosmetic (and miniscule weight) differences between the 3 shimano flat mount calipers.

I dont know anything about the hoods :)

The RS505 felt almost exactly like the 105 levers, still nice and sharp to shift.

It's ugly but the flat part between the bar and the hood felt more like a normal 11 speed shifter whether the RS685 felt like the Stay Puft version.

I'm getting one for my carbon road bike as I believe they're as good as the RS685, just not as flashy looking.

Forgive the cross-post from AQA, but before I send my partner out on a death trap...

Weirdly my compressionless cable housing won't fit into the shifter body (Tiagra 4700).

I've trimmed some of out the outer to make it so it can fit into the hole in the shifter (there is a small cable shaped hole it should go into - a different brand cable works on the other shifter), but that seems a little naughty. Likelihood of death?

Here's a pic of what I mean:

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