Any question answered...

Besides from philosophical what was the problem again. Creaking?

"cra-crack!" under load, either crank.

@Dammit if the wave washer isn't fully flattened then the cranks can always move laterally a bit, right? This aspect of BB30 confused me. Seemed to work okay in practice though.

They should be able to move by the amount of spring (wave washer) that is not fully compressed, I would think - which would be equal to the two half mm spacers (aka, 1mm) in my setup.

Of course, I don't know what load it would take to do that - 80kg of me at 700 watts might well do it though (for e.g. the North face of the Col du Waterloo).

Would it therefore be logical to believe that the axle is designed to be able to move laterally - i.e. left to right inside the bearings, possibly supported by the use of bearing grease on the axle?

Yes, the design allows for a bit of end float which is resisted by spring pressure. Campag Ultra Torque is the same, as are Zipp Vumas. Coincidentally, I just found the instructions for a 20+ year old square taper CQP BB which has no wave washer to control end float, you just shim it until it has <0.030"

If you push sideways on the pedals, all of the systems with some end float can make a banging noise as they flop from side to side. Obviously the ones with wave washers have to overcome the spring preload before moving, but that seems to be something a lot of people with off axis pedal thrust can achieve.

so long as the washer isn't flat, you're fine? And if it is, add a shim?

If the wave washer is flat, remove a shim

When you push the spindle in, how easy did it go in? i.e. without a mallet?

Also, were you using those crank with a power meter?

You know what I meant

Ta.

When you push the spindle in, how easy did it go in? i.e. without a mallet?

Also, were you using those crank with a power meter?

It'd been in the freezer for four hours, it slid straight in by hand (covering it with grease was interesting when it was that cold).

If you push sideways on the pedals, all of the systems with some end float can make a banging noise as they flop from side to side. Obviously the ones with wave washers have to overcome the spring preload before moving, but that seems to be something a lot of people with off axis pedal thrust can achieve.

I'm getting a double cra-crack noise under load, which none of my other BB30/Hollowgram crank installations have had, and I've previously had a lot more power to push the pedals round with.

How much weight will be saved moving from a 32c tyre to a 25c tyre? Is the inflated 32c really adding much weight?

More information required - if you went from a 32c Compass Stampede Pass to a 25c Schwalbe Martathon Plus you'd gain about 250g.

Conti hardshell to conti hardshell. Obviously I'd lose weight on the bike, but a worthwhile amount?

Is the inflated 32c really adding much weight?

Inflation adds about 4g compared with the 25C (700x25 at 6 bar contain ~15g of air per pair, 700x32 at 4.8 bar contain about 19g)

Conti are good at publishing tyre info (not sure how accurate it is though):-

http://conti-tyres.co.uk/road-and-track/clinchers/gator-hardshell

So going from 32mm to 25mm you'd drop 85g if you use the folding version or 130g if you use the non-folding version (not sure whether it's metal wire or kevlar in the bead of the rigid version).

Thanks for that info.

By the looks of it, If I went from my current, non folding 32c hardshell, to a folding 25c hardshell, I could save almost half a kilo!!! (when fully inflated) Is that correct?

I could save almost half a kilo!!!

If you do the maths, you'll probably find that the additional rolling resistance wipes out any possible gain from reduced mass, unless you're going up a steep hill and not coming back down.

Would there be additional rolling resistance coming down tyre size?

Are you meaning the shape that the smaller tyre would take on, on the rim, would mean more contact with the road than the 32?

Suggestions for a decent place to get a haircut in central that won't cost an arm and a leg?

You'd run lower pressures in the 32, less rolling resistance on imperfect surfaces.

Can anyone dig out a reliable geometry chart or catalogue pdf for the 2003 Specialized S-Works E5 Aerotec? Specialized's legacy site stuff is all broken and I can't find anything anywhere

I bought a frame on ebay which has a seatpost clamp like that of Vitus/Alan in that it uses grub screws from the back. Its also a 25mm seatpost.
Now, it came with a seatpost, not original, its a kalloy one but the previous owner has had the grub screw just screwed into the post so the screw is pushing up against the post. It appears to hold my weight fairly well but I'm guessing the original seatpost would have had holes in it for the screws.
Should I find a correct seatpost?
Should I drill the seatpost?
Should I HTFU and ride it as is?
I'm 65kg give or take a pizza
What we reckoning

I'm pretty sure the original seatpost wouldn't have had holes in it. I had an old steel aero frame that just had the grub screw that pressed against the seatpost which never slipped