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• #77602
It's thin, but not thin enough to kink-easily. My FD cable was routed under the BB (internally) and was fine.
Does your FD routing start at the Top Tube/Down Tube and exit kind-of between the chainstays? It might already be routed for this, no?
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• #77603
I'll get some and fingers crossed it fits. The routing goes top of downtube > under bb guide > chainstay. Its just empty space for the cables so needs liners to get it to find the bb cable guides, it was fitted with the stuff when I got the frame but I removed it post cabling. Am planning on pushing the liners over the existing cables all the way through before I pull the cables out.
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• #77604
Ah, I thought you'd already removed the cables. Yeah this should be an easy job.
If you're really worried about possible kinking of the cable guide, then you could feed in a new cable and pull out the old cable at the same rate (maybe a 2 person job) to give the cable guide a bit more structure. Using a fresh cable with an uncut end, even if the cable guide does kink, I think the inner cable will be strong enough to sort it out. -
• #77605
Forgot to say, on the return journey,
no need, of course to use the Ferry,
the MTR can take you straight to Central / Hong Kong interchangemtr.com.hk/en/customer/services/system_map.html
or you could go 'North' and pick up the Airport Express at Lai King.
mtr.com.hk/en/customer/services/system_map.html
(MTR is great, English & Chinese announcements,
and illuminated lights showing you the direction of travel on maps above every door,
and which side the doors will open at the next station).I've booked the tickets now, 13:30 to 21.30 stop on the outbound so I'll head into HK, 2 hours on the inbound so I'll snooze in the lounge.
All suggestions for stuff to do welcome!
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• #77606
That's a great tip, you are a genius
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• #77607
How is it I can train and race XC but climbing 4 flights of stairs has me breathing hard enough I get comments from my colleagues
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• #77608
Try climbing the stairs whilst sitting down.
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• #77609
Anyone know anything about debt collectors/bailiffs?
Got a knock at 6am today from an employee of Newham council looking for someone who does not live at the address- he did before or at least had his car registered there. After letting him know that the chap is no longer here he did the usual BS talking about a warrant to enter and seize goods which after repeated questioning he then admitted he didn't actually have a warrant. I then went to close the door, and this is the bit that really pissed me off, and he used his arm to stop me closing it repeatedly. Some quick reading about the differences between bailiffs and debt collectors has clarified the greater powers of the former but does anyone know if they are allowed to obstruct you in this way?
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• #77610
Different muscle groups, different efficiencies in. Physiology goes along way to bugger up simple physics explanations.
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• #77611
As you are not the debtor he really should have just walked away but what real harm did he do. In his mind you could have been lying so he was probably trying his luck. You can complain to the council but they won't care that much. Try and find a shred of evidence that points them on the trail of their quarry for any future issue you may have.
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• #77612
Real harm? I guess I'm a bit of a snowflake but the harm was him asserting his control over my actions. I provided the information I thought appropriate and then wanted to interaction to stop.
Mistaken identity is a real long shot as the name they were looking for is very Asian and I am a pretty pasty Caucasian.
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• #77613
I need some advice. This is a long one.
I have to repair the fairings on my motorcycle. I am 99% they are ABS. There are some guides on the internet, but they seem to assume a bit of knowledge about bonding agents and most are US. I’m after an idiots guide/clarification.
Problem:
cracks in plastic fairing
missing broken pieces of plastic
broken tabs
General bonding
To repair the cracks – ie to stick cracks back to each other I can use super glue (aka CA / Cyanoacrylate).
To fill in small voids I can use CA mixed with baking power – I assume in this case I would want one that doesn’t dry too quickly.
CA will dry very hard and will be harder to finish.
To fill larger holes or to strengthen panels I should use either fibre glass cloth or fibre glass mat combined with some sort of epoxy/resin
To fabricate tabs I will have to use either broken tabs/plastic and reinforce with fibre glass, or fabricate from scratch using fibre glass cloth and epoxy/resin.
- Is that ^ all correct?
Will a kit like this be ok and does anyone have any suggestions for cheaper routes, or what specific UK brands of cloth / matt / resin should I be looking for?
Are there any physical shops that would be good to go to? Halfords?
Sorry for the long winded questions.
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• #77614
What is the forum-approved bike tool kit roll or similar?
I'm currently carrying round a Rapha musette in my front rack bag, but things tend to escape from it and rattle around the bag, so want something better.
Nice, not pricey... -
• #77615
A motorcycle forum is probably a better place to pose the question.
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• #77616
The other thing you could do is get a BBB steerer extender so you can safely use an ahead stem and tension the threadless headset as normal. Mad stack but it'll work. Otherwise just clamp a stem to the threaded steerer anyway but I can't claim responsibility for injury incurred
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• #77617
Yeh I had though that, but there seem to be lots of industrius folk on here with experience of different types of fabrication. Plus I trust the opinions.
I guess the Tl;dr question is:
how do you stick plastic to itself and what glue goes ontop of fibre glass cloth? -
• #77618
I have one by Mack Workshop that's been perfect
http://www.mackworkshop.com/collections/accessories/products/road-roll
But there's also bigxtop who are forum based
http://www.bigxtop.com/collections/accessories/products/saddle-roll
Personally I'd go Mack Workshop as the plastic buckle means it's easier to do up and undo. It's big enough for tyre levers, small pump, multi tool, repair patches etc
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• #77619
The forum's own:
http://www.bigxtop.com/products/saddle-roll -
• #77620
Never open the door to anyone you are not expecting.
Request they identify themselves, ask for proof of identity.
Few organisations have any right of entry. -
• #77621
Thanks. Think I need something a bit longer though. I carry a pedal spanner and pump that I think would be too long for both of those. Any more ideas?
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• #77622
I'm pretty sure Mack Workshop will do custom sizes? Should be an easy enough job. I'd second their recommendation
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• #77623
Is the tool roll going in a bag or being strapped to the bike?
If it's just a generic tool bag then I'd have a look on Aliexpress.
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• #77624
Or one of these for the princely sum of £2.55 posted:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/16-POCKET-CANVAS-TOOL-ROLL/dp/B005F8YGX4 -
• #77625
I have done repairs to plastic and GRP on bikes (and kayaks) and would say that the worst thing you can do is remove the fairing from the bike as you'll never get it back on right post repair. Gaffa tape is good to hold stuff together whilst you work your magic with the fibreglass on the other side. Then work on the alternate side until it is sound then you could remove it from the bike. It's essential to get the air out of the matting and "quickly" take your time. If you make it too thick where it matters you just rub it down and finesse it a bit. You can buy everything from Halfords but it won't be cheap and there won't be any knowledge there. You might be able to blag some advice from a boat yard, scout group or rowing club (or similar) that frequently do this sort or repair, if any are near you.
Edit: Not that I am endorsing the programme but "Overhaulin" did a rebuild on a Lotus Europa and did a lot of GRP work on it. It is on YouTube.
Ta, sorry for the specific question, but would you say this stuff was particularly thin? Does it kink easily? I need it to be really narrow as the holes to get them through around the BB area are barely bigger than the cables.