Kinesis Racelight RC- RGR Rat

Down tube seems a strange diameter 27.2 post is very very tight, but the tube looks straight. also wondering what size tyres I can fit with some kind of guards. 25mm may just about fit.... though attaching a rear guard will be a pain.

Pics are with 23mm tyres on

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Slow progress as I'm recovering from spinal surgery.

Getting a 27.2 seatpost in is tight as, to the point where I got in touch with Kinesis to make sue it was the right diameter- looks to be some paint or possible surface corrosion on the inside of the tube- What's the best method of removal?

Got second hand Carbon monkey lite bars, DT Swiss R1850 wheels, Zee mech and shifter. Have some Ultegra flat bar levers on the way.

Will buy a 4700 chain and wide range cassette from Ribble in the coming days

I still need brakes, pedals, grips and a 27.2 Carbon post (assuming I can get it in)

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Is it an alu frame? Use a wire brush to clean out the seat tube gunk. Glad to hear you're recovering!

Thanks, much appreciated- it is indeed an alu frame. Will try a wire brush in the next couple of days

if the wire brush doesn't do it any decent workshop should be able to ream it out

looks to be some paint or possible surface corrosion on the inside of the tube- What's the best method of removal?

I'd give it a good skoosh of disc brake cleaner or wd40/gt85 type thing then ram a rag down there (keep hold of an end) with a long thing (screwdriver, socket extension, etc. Something blunt works best as anything too pointy will poke through the rag).

After that I'd be moving to a 1/2 round file if you have one or some sandpaper wrapped around the afore mentioned long thing. Foam back sandpaper is good as it helps to conform to the diameter of seatube without being too tight.

Check the top as well, overtightening a clamp can deform the ends and make it tight there but fine lower down.

Also check down inside for the holes where the top tube and seat stays join the seatube, there'll be holes drilled and they are often a source of burrs etc that can make post fitment tight.

Thanks for the advice all

@M_V - Thanks for the tips on cleaning out the tubing. There's been no overtigthening, top of the ST is fine. I checked for burrs etc at the tube joints when I first noticed the issues, and all seems smooth.

In good light i can see the top layer of Alu has corroded a little further down the tube, and the tubing looks straight, so hopefully a small amount of corrosion is the only issue...

Almost all parts are now on their way. still searching for a decent-ish carbon post and a set of brakes- preferably Shimano with proper brake shoes.

Currently the entire build should come in a bit north of £250

Work and family have kept me away from making much progress-

Got the seat tube reamed in the end- wire brush didn't cut it. Also bought some more parts- cheap used fulcrum carbon chainset, 48t ring and carbon seatpost. Over budget as a result, but should be worth it

two more things to sort before build time

1. Try to find some guards that will fit. thinking of attempting to fit some Giant defy guards due to their brake bridge cutout. Not convinced it'll work though. any other alternatives beside crud or SKS clip ons?
   
2. Paint- thinking of painting the frame,
   However the frame is alu with a carbon rear, so stripping and painting may prove expensive- any one had experience with similar frames?
   
   

in regards to 2), I had a frame with composite construction like that, alu with a carbon rear end. Got it bead blasted, stopping just short of the stays

Cheers- I take it once re-painted that you had to cover the area between alu and carbon to keep it neat. Just have to find somewhere I have confidence in that doesn't charge Argos/ Mercian prices

I left it raw, but if I was going for a full paint job I would have just sanded back the leftover areas by hand. Got it done at an automotive painters, think it wasn't much more than 20 or 30 to get it done, just had to trek a bit to find one that had the facility (most only did chemical stripping or sand blasting)

So- I'm finally getting round to building this after months of inaction. A close inspection of the forks reveals the carbon steerer seems to have expanded a little somehow. stems are difficult to fit, headset is super tight. I've bought a new fork, but its a little shorter, so I need a new headset. Any recommendations for a 36/45 low stack headset?

New forks have arrived. However there are a couple of little nicks in the carbon. Not cracks, but small chunks that have been gouged out. What does everyone reckon- Ok to ride after a discount from the seller, or only fit for a return?

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And another

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Looks like they tried to get the crown race off with a screwdriver or something. Difficult to tell from those pics but if not too deep I think I'd ride it. You may always worry though so might not be worth it.

Yep, sounds about right. If I can get a reduction in price from the seller I'll probably ride them