Any question answered...

I have a feeling one is 130mm rear spacing and the other is 135mm but could be talking bollocks.

yeah, they all sort of seem identical and interchangeable depending on which website you look at...

I think I've answered my own question -

this is a D772SB http://novatecusa.net/project/d772sb-2/ which appears to be QR, 9/10/11 speed, 135mm, disc.

This is D712SB http://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-D712SB-10.asp which appears to be the same but 10 speed in Shimano.

So I guess the difference is just 10 or 11 speed, the D772SB being the newer hub.

There is - @Jingle_Jangle - who was it who did the We Like Lists shirts?

I've done similar but made it so that it was on the rear wheel. I'd rather have a rear tyre let go than a front. You'll live, probably.

@miitch

5th column and @pjay sorted the 'I like lists..' edition admirably for @Jingle_Jangle

I'm after a nut that has an external width of 12mm to fit into a hole (see pic).

Does that mean I need a 12mm nut?

Fwiw the other side has a round hole, hence wanting a particular size nut as opposed to bolt.

1 Attachment

I'm after a nut that has an external width of 12mm

Tricky, it lies between M6 (10mm across flats) and M8 (13mm AF)

Take it to Clerkenwell Screw?

If it's just to keep it from turning maybe the M6 is big enough?

Or just go imperial.

File down an M8. Shouldn't take more than a couple minutes

Cheers all.

The hole is actually a bit over 12mm and plastic, so I think I'll go M8 and just push it in. I've tried a 10mm/M6 is a bit small for what I'm after.

I have a 1 1/8" threaded fork and the steerer is too long for the bike so the threaded portion sits about 1 1/2" above the headset. I have done the following bodge - will I die? I've installed a threadless headset then used spacers until I reach the threaded section then I've used the top half of a threaded headset as a kind of surrogate start nut. Everything feels sturdy.

Obviously I'd rather chop the steerer and have someone cut some new threading but I've called four or five shops and nobody wants to do it.

Try a frame builder to thread it?

Yeah that's a good point. I'll ask around.
I just wanna know if it's rideable for the time being? Like I said it feels sturdy but I don't know if I'm missing something obvious as to why it might be dangerous.

No reason I can see why that shouldn't be fine, but put a lock nut on as well so it doesn't unthread itself

Flying to Australia, if I flew London - Hong Kong, then Hong Kong - Sydney would the 13:35 to 21.30 layover allow me to accomplish anything other than getting off the train, buying a bowl of noodles, then getting back on the train to the airport again?

Good point. I don't know why I didn't do that already.

You'd get 3 or 4 hours wandering around, train is about half an hour to Central. I'd do it if you haven't been to HK before, not sure if I'd bother otherwise. It's a nice enough airport to hang around at, particularly if you can use the lounge.

I haz...u haz pm.

Anyone have any of those thin cable liners that come with internal routed frames I could have? I stupidly threw mine away but need them to reverse build a bike I have.

I recently used this:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/transfil-gear-cable-waterproof-kit

Lo pro sizing.

5'11", 32" inseam equals..?

I no haz PM...Why U lie 2 me liek dat?