PC Tech Thread

Nice man, any links for where to pick them up specifically?

I'm software and building computers literate. But when it comes to specific items and which to get out of the selections it is all quite confusing...

Cheers mate.

pcpartpicker.com ?

I'm prob not the best person to ask, I think I just used Amazon or eBay for my parts. It was my first ever build and my primary concern was something cheap so if I blew it all up trying to put it together it wouldn't be too much of a loss.

My mb is a gigabyte h81 something. Micro atx. Does the job for me and it's now housing an i7.

The i3 is in a cupboard somewhere and I'd let it go for £65 if your interested.

Heard great things about the new i3s too if you have more to spend.

I have unused USB headers on my MB and want a rear USB bracket with 2x 2.o ports and 2x 3.0. Unless my google-fu is particularly weak this evening such a thing does not exist.

Please prove me wrong.

I could be interested in the i3 processor, do you have a specific model number? Cheers

I think its an i3 4330... yep, thats the one (just checked).

@Velocio do you use the cloud conbullshiterator to install the drivers for the DeathAdder Chroma mouse? Do you have the standalone driver? Don't feel the need to install their bullshit just for a mouse unless it adds value?

You don't need to install the cloud thing if you don't want to use sensitivity profiles or anything.

I'm finding the cursor just disappears every now and then into a corner. Bit annoying. Wonder if the proper drivers would improve it.

Like just then, it disappeared for a good couple of seconds while I moved the mouse around.

No, it's just a mouse. No drivers needed.

Well whatever is doing it, it's fucking shit. The old one didn't just disappear for seconds at a time. Anyone want an as new Chroma?

New computer time

Fucking gamer mouse. I blame VB! Death to the infidels!

WTF.

How is it not working? It works fine on all machines I have, Linux, Windows 10 and OSX.

Have you tried installing the drivers in case that's actually important? Are you on some old Windows? Have you checked the mouse settings in the control panel?

I presume you've done all of this already because you know what you're doing, but Razer's have been my go to mice for years precisely because they work everywhere without hiccup or issue... even Linux (where nothing ever works first time).

silly question, made sure there's no dust covering the sensor ?
tried a different surface ?

If I knew that I wouldn't be ranting on here :P

Win10. Unplug old mouse, plug in new mouse. Mouse cursor disappears sometimes.
The only setting I may have changed was the left/right button click because the old mouse primary button was flaky. Next step was to install their stupid drivers in case it was some magic mouse bullshit even if 20+ years of commuting has never required me to install specialised mouse drivers..

I'll try their drivers and if there's still an issue it's going back and I'll get another Logitech.

It's brand new and on a low friction mouse mat. Perhaps it doesn't like the surface but to be fair it's been years since I've had a mouse that actually gives a shit what surface it's being used on. I mean, I use a shitty old HP mouse across the palm of my sweaty hand when I'm on the turbo.

Try different USB port, try different colour/texture surface.

Yeah, didn't have time to piss about with it last night, was trying to sort out TCR routes to make sure I had full route coverage. Will try some shit and see what happens.

@chrisbmx116 Cheers, I'm probably interested, just trying to work out how cheaply I can build a quiet PC. Will send a PM at some point

On a separate note, I've just bought a new SSD for my laptop (old one was running out of space).

Installation will be one of two ways.
1) Fresh install of Windows 10 and then copy across relevant stuff from my old SSD (the auto update to W10 doesn't seem to work on my laptop for some reason). Is it just a matter of installing it from USB and plugging in my Windows 7 licence no?

Is there a program anywhere that lists out the progams installed, licence keys, etc to simplify this?

Also, how do I get stuff off my old drive. I have a SATA to USB adaptor I've used for HDDs in the past, do I just plug that in and go from there? Will I have permission to access the files?

2) Second option, if W10 doesn't work, is just to clone the old drive to new. What's the best way of doing this? The last time I did this was some years ago and I just plugged them both into a linux box and used dd command to copy from one to the other. I assume there's a more elegant way.

1) Fresh install of Windows 10 and then copy across relevant stuff from my old SSD (the auto update to W10 doesn't seem to work on my laptop for some reason). Is it just a matter of installing it from USB and plugging in my Windows 7 licence no?

Yes.
Download from here
https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10

follow the instructions to create bootable USB. Use the Win7 key

Cool, just let me know... SSD wise, Carbon Clone worked for me...

I've upgraded my other half's laptop to windows 10. She was previously using some free trial version of office which I've had to uninstall.

Any suggestions for what to do now?

I'm guessing my options are;

1. Pay for a licenced copy - are there any cheaper ones?
   
2. Steal an unlicenced copy - it gets used for work so it would have to be totally seamless / effortless with no risk.
   
3. Use an open source version of office - are the newer versions now as good as the new word? The one I used to have was a bit windows 2000.
   
   

Open to any suggestions. The ability to use Word, excel, and PowerPoint is essential.

Cheers.

Do either of you work for a company that has access to the 'home use program'?

I fully licensed version of office (Mac or pc) only costs £9

You can check by going to the site and entering your work email after selecting 'don't know my program code' or something like that.... It will email you with a link to purchase if you have access.