• It is problematic to use hot water ie over 60C. Unless you want to change the structure of the leather to make it harder and brittle. The effect is Cuir Bouilli.
    Those characteristics are not normally desired for a bike saddle.

    See #7 of my New cover for an old saddle

    And before soaking it is best to de-tension the tension bolt, and only re-tension as necessary after the leather has fully dried (think days), and no elevated temperatures for the drying process.

    Without trying to inflame the ever present debate on Proofide and other leather conditioners, I only use Proofide. It is my understanding that the vegetable tanned leather (which is used in tensioned saddles) is used as it stays relatively stiff (except when wet). It will gradually mould to your shape from the pressure exerted by your 'sit bones'. It is not ever meant to be flexible. Flexibility will very quickly shorten the life of the saddle.
    Many leather treatments are designed to increase suppleness of chrome tanned leather (an altogether different process and used in distinctly different applications (gloves, leather shoes, leather furniture).
    These applications are quite different to the leather held under tension taking a major part of your body weight during a ride.

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