Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-BR0008-00-ENG.pdf

ta

I've got the goodridge compressionless housing on my bike at the moment, but it is mighty stiff.
Is the jagwire/yokozuna more flexible? Where can I buy it by the meter? (contacted moore large about the 10m roll of jagwire compressionless housing but it seems they might have discontinued it?).
The jagwire elite link cable looks appealing - and flexible, but comes in mighty short pieces for hella money, anyone tried it? Or the Alligator Ilink? Again I'd have to buy 2 sets of cable to fully cable my bike but it claims to last pretty well.

In which area is it stiff? the handlebar?

Usually pre-bend it help.

Yokozuna is the best I've found, still stiff, but they tend to be.

I have internal cable routing and there is a slightly sharp bend where the cable goes through the chainstay and I think it's there. I also think in my impatience I may have kinked the cable on the way in (was cabling the bike in a rush before the shop opened).
Maybe I'll give it another go with some goodridge housing and just be more careful cabling. Maybe run it with the campag inner cause they're slightly slimmer no?

I thought the AWOL have external routing.

Campag cable usually worth trying, work for me as well.

I haz custom not AWOL.
Going to try the "be gentle and try again" method rather than the "throw money at it until it works" method.

Ah gotcha, they're a bastard to sort out internally but worth it with smooth silky operation.

Di2 hydro. How much lever movement?

Mine feel spongy and we've bled fuck out of them

They do have a lot of lever throw although bite nicely once the pads contact. I've not played with them properly enough to give a full opinion but if there's no bite point adjustment then I'd be tempted to give the levers one careful squeeze without a rotor in to self adjust the pads a bit too far then test with rotor to see if it's better, carefully rinse and repeat. There seems to be a lot of pad clearance so that might make them feel better lever throw wise, although if they are actually spongey after the pads contact then maybe there's air trapped in the system somewhere.

Put some SLX hydraulics on the road bike while my shoulder fixes itself. Very stoppy, so little effort, need smaller rotors or fatter tyres...

should not feel spongey, mine are great (after the poor cutting of the hose was addressed)

iirc @Alb had some tips for setting them up to reduce the lever travel

Should have long throw and very sharp, not soft.

Might need to bleed them without the shim to push piston in a bit more.

Another tip I've read is to losen the lever throw adjuster right off, then re-bleed, which will allow a tiny bit more fluid into the system, and you can then dial it back in with the adjuster.
(Usually they are set up with the adjuster wound all the way in)

They stop OK, but the lever is almost at the bars which is no good for me. I can't believe it could be air - we pumped the crap out of it from both ends (,ooh nurse).

long throw and very sharp

Are these two not mutually exclusive? I'd think sharp means it'll bite quickly and therefore not have much travel/throw?

They move too far for my liking. Bleeding without spacer might be OK, just need to make sure pistons don't fuck out. Maybe I could diy skinnier spacer like I did for Magura.

There is an adjuster then? Would be a bit weird not to have it on something so expensive, although the one on XT/XTR seems to do fuck all, but they work right out of the box.

Is it the rear? I've also read that it might be to do with more fluid being needed for the rear, although I'm not entirely sure how that works???

If the lever throw adjuster is the big screw under the cap, I already backed them right off. Let me tweak those and test.

It's all that non compressionless hydraulic fluid.

Nope, rear is actually feeling better.

Ooh nurse

So, spongy or just lever throw?

I have no idea.