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From what I've heard if you go up before the trains run you can sneak up there? (its this point that I'm interested in) Could be risky but risky is fun isn't it?
Edit - I found this http://inrng.com/2013/09/roads-to-ride-puy-de-dome/ written 3 years ago so it could have changed!
You can go up. The road is closed to traffic (walking/cycling inc) and its a train or walk to the top.