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You can go up. The road is closed to traffic (walking/cycling inc) and its a train or walk to the top.
skinny-
From what I've heard if you go up before the trains run you can sneak up there? (its this point that I'm interested in) Could be risky but risky is fun isn't it?
Edit - I found this http://inrng.com/2013/09/roads-to-ride-puy-de-dome/ written 3 years ago so it could have changed!
Hamham
I'm off to France for a holiday at the start of august and staying near Limoges for a week. There is an old Tour de France nearby that goes up the Puy de Dôme. Reading the web some people say you can go up it some say you cant. Anyone on here have any recent experience? I'm going to spend some more time reading up about it but thought I'd check here first.