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I think we are after the same experience, in previous years I just found it so refreshing to take it easy, enjoy the scenery, bikes & people. It's rare to have a ride with the same ideals as others and not have most out for themselves & not caring about average speeds or frickin Strava. The only thing I'd say is that the Monsal Trail is shared equally with others and it isn't really safe to be doing anything approaching 20mph IMO, apart from as you say when there's absolutely no one around, including other cyclists. Also the scenery on the trail around Monsal Head is some of the best on the ride.
efb
@de_Selby
Re epilepticfridgeboy: You go at your pace and I'll go at mine. The misty, early-morning rail trails are sheer heady, intoxicating fun taken flat out; and the last 10k or so down Longdale to the first food stop at Hartington are the most exhilarating road miles you'll ever get in Blighty.
After that, suitably fortified, I ease up and become sociable. Eroica is fun however you go; nobody is doing it wrong.
Love that Osgear Hobbs up there!