Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

I picked up some stans alpha 400 really cheap, with the intention of running them with tyres & tubes on the road bike with 25c tyres.

However I've since read a number of horror stories on webz of people who've had clinchers blow off their wheels - should I be afraid, or are these just people running 23c tyres at 140psi?

New rear wheel build time. Have a 24 spoke hub and R460 rim. I have some Sapim Race double butted spokes for the drive side already. Will be lacing that 2 cross. Recommendations for non drive side?
Same again? Lazers? 2 cross? Radial?

Same again 2 cross

.

So as it is written so shall it be done.

In the process of building up a Dynamo hub for the GF, but I'm unsure on the spike length, my spoke length calculator doesn't have this particular hub in it and trying to find the specs on it have defeated my google-fu.

Rim is a dt Swiss 466 erd is 604mm
Hub is a shimano xt dynamo dh-t785
Hole pcd is 70mm
Flange distance is 52.1mm
And that's as much info as I have.

Any more info on the hub or the spoke length for this build would be appreciated..

Are the hub flanges equidistant from the lock nuts? If not you need to measure them like so to find A and B:

Once youve done this, input all the data into this spoke calculator, including the number of spoke holes and crosses you want. You will need to click 'enter your own measurements'.

I much prefer taking my own measurements over using other peoples as you can triple check its correct. Hubs may also change slightly over the years but remain with the same name so its useful to know the exact specs of the hub you own. Invest in a decent set of verniers if you dont already have a pair

Bit stuck... distributor is out of stock of the DT Swiss HBDTS3801S front hub 15mm thru-axle to 5mm QR conversion kits. Any retailers stock them?

I think I might have some.

Sweet, PM incoming...

Can I use my nice under a year old spokes from ERD592 HED Ardennes build if I was to replace the rim with ERD596 KinlinXR22T?

Because tubeless?
Would probably work (assuming those ERDs are correct; -2.0mm of spoke inside each nipple) but not ideal and wheel would be more fragile.
Archetype would be a better match as a replacement if you don't need tubeless, because its spoke bed is within 1mm of the rim you're looking to replace.
Have you measured those ERDs yourself, or are they the manufacturer's stated values?

Hard to say, if you are on the upper end of length for the 592 you might get away with it, but most likely you would end up with below recommended thread engagement.

I believe Kinlin's stated ERD isn't too accurate.
(Rim dia.) 633 - (2 x rim depth)/(2 x 22) = 589mm
589 - (2 x spoke bed/outer wall thickness)/(2 x 2.0mm) = 593mm.
Then, usually, (2 x 2mm) or (2 x 3mm)/(2 x approx. height of nipple base) is added to the above to calculate ERD, meaning the actual rim ERD is at least 597mm, and probably greater.

the Kinlin rim has an ERD of 596mm and no your spokes wont work, they will be too short.

Thank you. I might stick with new HED Ardennes then :-/

Use dt swiss 16mm nipples which effectively will add 2mm to your spoke lenght so you are good to go

Might be wrong, but I believe length of thread in nipples of varying sizes does not change.
Extra length is not threaded, and just there to support a spoke when used with a thick rim.

Might be wrong, but I believe length of thread in nipples of varying sizes does not change

Some do, some don't. The internet suggests that DT use about half the extra length for extra thread. The trouble with using long nipples to compensate for short spokes is that you run into the issue of not engaging the threads in the nipple head, which some people suggest leads to the head breaking off at the join with the shank

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Ah, thanks, good to know.
I've measured Sapim nipples on the past and the length of thread between 12 & 14mm does not change.

With Dt Swiss the extra lenght is 1mm thread per 2mm of lenght. That's leaves you with 2mm extra thread on 16mm nipples.
Sapim is just extra lenght of nipple which is good if building current crop of carbon rims with extra thick spoke bed.
The picture above is a little dated perhaps. If a the spoke is fully threaded
Into a 12mm nipple it actually protrudes about a mm over the nipple end. With 14mm nipple the end of the spoke sits flush.with a 16mm nipple there is still enough spoke to support the weak portion of the nipple.

When you offer to retrue a campag 1990s wheel for a mate and think "Shouldn't be too bad..."

7 fecked cheese quality nipples and one broken at screwdriver end too...famous last words time 😂

Now you know what it feels like to beca mechanic.

You call it "Monday" 😜

Planning a build with some HED Sonic Hubs from an Ardennes wheelset to some kind of Chinese Carbon rim. I weigh 65kg and planning 18h (radial) front, 24h (radial NDS, 2X DS) rear. Would DT Aero Comp all round, or DT Aero Lite, with Aero comp Drive side only be recommended?

The spoke count is absolutely fine as long as you will treat them as racing/club run rims.
Re spokes and lacing

Front: Radial, cx-ray/aerolite
Rear: 2x Both sides - the rim is gonna move between your brake pads regardless of spoke gauge. Using heavier gauge spoke like aerocomp is gonna reduce this a little bit.
Any carbon rim is more then suitable to be used with thin spokes when it comes to durability