"SONIC boom" (aka Yokel-Motion 2.0)

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  • In other news...

    I bagged a 55t Fibrelyte off of TTF, which is nice but I've been putting off assessing what this will do to my short crank ambitions.

    I also learned that having the grips of the base bars level with the top tube, is meant to be beneficial in yaw conditions. Maybe it does, may be it doesn't; but it does provide a convenient excuse not to trim my steerer (the Ventus stem has a lower stack than the Zipp I was using).


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  • @PhilDAS


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  • Sexy - I want a skinny steel frame to replace my Precursa.

    Is that ring 144 or 130BCD?

  • 130mm: I've committed to 7400 cranks.

    Although I've been offered some cheap Campag Pista. But they're 170mm and 144BCD.

    PS Did you get any clips?

  • Rad. Those bars are the dogs danglies

  • vulture.jpg - Let me know if you no longer have a use for them.

    Yep, got the Vuka clips - Thanks for the tip off! PJ originally sent the wrong ones, but came through in the end :)

    Will see if I can reduce the scoble-risers. The pads look sooo comfy - And I found my current Deda's quite comfy anyway.

    Also wanna try some J-bend extensions. <£20 Anyone?

  • Also wanna try some J-bend extensions. <£20 Anyone?

    Me too: get your own thread.

    cuckoo.jpg

  • I'm not too sure about that tbh

  • The grip/TT/yaw thang?

    It was just a passing comment from Nutshell, which I'm using as an excuse for my laziness.

  • This build looks rowdy, proper HHSTTB apart from the green tyre :-P

    On another note, Ive been tempted to get one of them carbon rings for a while, how solid do they feel?

  • rowdy

    My work here is done!

    I've not used the ring yet, but there are plenty in circulation and have been for some years: I've yet to hear of any problems.

    PS Open Pave are the tyre of choice for early season ballers. ;)

  • Open Pave are the tyre of choice for early season ballers. ;)

    I completely agree... cc @umop3pisdn

    p.s. bike looks awesome, love the massive crabon front end on skinny steel

  • Cheers, I'm started with the front-end and am working back.

    The rear wheel is shared with my road bike, which is the real reason I'm riding an OP: lazy.

  • Awesome project!

  • Front end done!

    The "middle" is a WIP: I haven't achieved gooch-nirvana with the Tritone, so I'm hoping to try an Aerocoach saddle if they haven't sold out by Friday (can you put in a word for me @umop3pisdn ) and I'll continue experimenting with short cranks (on the look out for more FC-740x to chop).

    The back end is where I'm a bit stuck, ie the rear wheel.

    I bagged some cheap Pacenti TL28 in the Planet X sale and got a BDW hub, intending to use it with a RALTech. But RT are out of action for the rest of the year and a "naked", 36h, shallow rim doesn't seem like it should be my first choice.

    A "proper" disc is out of the question due to my 46mm chainline.

    I've been using the Archetype-rimmed wheel off of my road bike, but I'm moving to Reading for three months and that will stay here (lending the road bike out).

    Ideally I'd like a wide rim and am not desperately fussed about it being super-aero as long as it's no worse than a 32h, bladed spoke, Archetype pending RT getting up and running again.

    Having said that, I've got regular work ATM so if there's an option on a par (both with regards to price and performance) with a RT skinned, 28mm rim then I could consider that too.

    Time is an issue too: not only are we half way through the year already, but it would be much easier to have this sorted-out before I move, so a fortnight or so...


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  • Might be a fair bit of effort but you could pick up a rear trispoke and convert it to fixed with a surly fixxer? Would also give you an oppurtunity to play with the chainline. The usual issues of de-bonding it or unthreading it might not apply if youre only doing to use it for TTing (and not skidding I assume)

  • Good call (aside from it being "skinny"): the road version of the SPNK "fixxer" is 46mm: double 'spokes is never wrong!

    And no, I don't skid.

  • One of the olf Pro discs with SPNK adaptor?

  • Only a small number of early Hed3 wheels work with a Fixxer. Specialized don't, nor do later Heds with their own design cassette rotor. Pro clincher disc with the FH-6600 or FH-6700 based hub works. At some point I'm going to hassle Walker Brothers
    about their Wideboy disc, they promised a track one for 2016 but there's no sign of it, and I really want bolt on sprockets anyway

  • Can't find these, only Prima.

    Why do you suggest them over another disc + adaptor?

  • They fit the bill (aside from the UKIP finish).

    I know bolt-on > screw-on, but why the insistence now? Because if you're spending that sort of money, it needs to be "right"?

  • Because if you're spending that sort of money, it needs to be "right"?

    Exactly. I already have a Pro with a Fixxer, wide would be nice but wide and bolt on would be perfect, especially if I want to use it on the tandem too.

  • The front spok on my CAAD is a Specialized (I think) and it has threads that look like theyd fit a cog, assuming because it was converted from a rear. Surely this means a fixxer would work?

  • Do you even Fixxer? The conversion replaces the freehub rotor on common Shimano rear hubs, using the large hollow central bolt for attachment and the splines on the hubshell for drive.

    A Specialized/Hed with just 1.37"x24 threads on the hub is for a screw-on multiple freewheel. You can get adapters to move the chainline to suit fixed use, but the adapter unscrews off the hub when you try to brake, so it's still a suicide hub even though the adapter has lockring threads.

  • My bad. I was thinking of one of these:

    ...which would still work for Scilly as he wont be braking with his drivetrain

    Is there an easy way to tell if a rear HED can take a fixxer?

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"SONIC boom" (aka Yokel-Motion 2.0)

Posted by Avatar for Scilly.Suffolk @Scilly.Suffolk

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