Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

Hopefully this thread is enough to put prospective buyers off...

I have a thread for that

I didn't want to mention that.

I'm tempted to ask VB to delete the contents and turn it in to a CP thread.

Here's mine from a while back. Put spesh Turbo cottons on and Fabric ALM since

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first of all I switched the qr to an internal cam shimano xt. I put the grease inside the chainstays where the hub meets the frame and inside the chainstays where the "axle" contacts the frame. I didnt put much or any grease between the qr – frame -connection.

I also took off all the chainring bolts and went quite overboard spraying the grease between bolts and chainring arms; and between chainrings and spider.

I had a very similar sounding issue to you, it was driving me crazy. In the end it was something to do with pedal axle / crank - cleaned and regressed and this resolved the problem.

Supposed 2017 renders, Etap and Ultegra disc.

https://bernhardkohl.at/bikes/?type=RR&brand=Cannondale&bike_id=938
https://bernhardkohl.at/bikes/?type=RR&brand=Cannondale&bike_id=939

Ted Kings new Evo disced up too. Not sure if I'm into the look of 160 rotors and deep carbons.

SRAM etap hydraulic actually look great.

Because it's designed to both lubricate and stop dissimilar metals from chemically bonding. It does this by having lumps of other metals floating in it.

If you want to stop your press fit bb from pinging and popping, putting a load of grit in between the press-fit surfaces aint gonna help :)

Because the fit is so tight - the shell is smaller than the bearing - very little can get between the two anyway, but a spot of normal grease won't do any harm, but personally I don't bother.

Lots of conflicting method from several mechanic result in I using copper grease on the shell, so far it stopped creaking, most of the issues I've gather were poorly fitted alu cup in the carbon Cannondale, no matter what you can do, it'll compress the bearing making it gritty.

It sound not too dissimilar to the old guys who claim that you don't put grease in bottom bracket spindle to prevent it from damaging the cranks (!).

Up to you what you do in your workshop Ed, but I am with Howard on this - you should not use copper-slip, it's too thick and will have a negative impact on the bottom bracket function/lifespan.

I usually mount the bearings dry, having cleaned the entire area with acetone/brake cleaner, but have had similar (good) results using a thin film of good quality teflon grease in the shell.

I'd likely fit the bearings dry if doing this tomorrow, that said.

so, my low stack bearing cover just arrived thanks to @mdcc_tester. Steerer still not cut to length so my stem currently has a hat on

obviously, not going to run it this way

Anyway, the Hylix seatpost that I got yesterday is holding up and still hasnt punctured my bottom and loved me tenderly, still dont have any proper opinions about it as I havent done any long rides yet, will put that to the test this weekend. Pretty solid and maybe a tad more comfortable than the stock cannondale one. Installed the Sisl2 so the whole caad12 is now down to 6.83kg. I'll take some pictures tomorrow.

On another note, for some reason, my rear brake cable started making noises inside the top tube everytime I turn the bars on a certain angle.Tightened the cable but it didnt help at all.

I assume you mean anti-sieze?

full name would be the Loctite copper based anti sieze, so yeah that what I meant.

6.83kg

Impressive

That is THE bike. All the correct bits. Just needs less rancid green.

Up to you what you do in your workshop Ed, but I am with Howard on this - you should not use copper-slip, it's too thick and will have a negative impact on the bottom bracket function/lifespan.

Actually it's fine to use either anti seize or glue in BB30 (especially since the glue is also thick), Cannondale told us that we should use either, it shouldn't impact the bearing lifespan unless install incorrectky.

In a perfect world, it should be 100% perfect but it isn't and tolerance are never perfect.

Specialized also told us the same thing with their BB30.

As I said, you keep doing what you want to do, I'll do what I want to do, we're both happy. I won't be using copper-slip, if my bike breaks you can laugh long and loud.

@rogan stick with a thomson 25.4 seatpost, my hylix carbon one has a crack already where the clamp goes. I always use a torque wrench and i was torquing it at the recommended 5nm, I have the the wrench between 3-5nm and whilst tightening the clamp, the post cracked. >.> fml
Not sure if it's me fucking up, but I havent even gotten close to 5nm

Jeez, is the thomson one actually any lighter than the OTP one? I pick up mine on monday with the steerer chopped so gna do some more build planning this weekend

daaaamn thats shit!

thomson compared to the stock one,
cannondale stock 298.5
thomson Approximately 228g (330mm length)

Notthat knowledgeable with carbon stuff but the post really feels soft and moves a bit when i press on the open end with my thumbs, flexy much?

took better pic yesterday

in terms of fixie bike curation id say it is done for a while now

Maybe your torque wrench is/was broken? I'm sceptical that they are all created equal i.e. accurate.

Hmm, that's bad news. I got the same post, looks like I might be getting a Thomson. Balls.