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• #2
F@ck, they do look properly rusted stuck. I'd suggest the usual, i.e. penetrating oil and wiggle bolts and post a bit every day or two. Should be able to work the brakebolts loose. If still stuck, move on to blowtorch and vice for seatpost and lastly the caustic soda treatment (google/youtube, dangerous but effective). Unless you're planning a respray/powdercoat I'd suggest treating all the rust spots with linseed oil, as well as the inside of the frame. Poke around with a screwdriver or knife to see it's not rusted through anywhere.
Great rat project!
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• #3
Yep- they are properly stuck indeed. Should have some oil arriving in the next couple of days.
Thanks for the Linseed oil tip- I wasn't planning on powdercoating it, I'm keen for it to be a cheap build....
Assuming the frame is sound it should be a fun bike at the end...
Shame there isn't clearance in the frame for 650b wheels really, would have been awesome
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• #4
1st issue- The brake nuts are rounded off, so I can't get any purchase with an Allen key. Any tips on removing them?
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• #5
There are Campagnolo flatbar shifters, up to 10 speed. Don't think they were continued into the 11 speed era.
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• #6
Cheers- nice but spendy unless I can find a pair 2nd hand. I'm getting the feeling it'll either be a thumbie, or some cheap 2nd hand Shimano bits....
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• #7
in reply to @chrismcr Take the front wheel out and stand the bike upside-down. Then try repeated use of proper penetrating oil via the bottom of the steerer tube so that it is going straight on the bolt and recessed allen key. If you can find a torx bit that will just fit the allen socket wack that in with a tap of a hammer and then try to undo it with that. You might have to file the torx bit to get it to fit but it might just find enough purchase to move it. Use of an impact screwdriver is good if you can keep the fork adequately braced (laid on a sandbag maybe). If you can remove the bottom bracket too you could try penetrating oil down the seat tube from that direction too. The longer you can do it for the better the result. If you start getting oil appearing on the exposed seat post you'll know that it is working. Thump the side of the nose of the saddle with the heel of your hand and see if it moves. Penetrating oil almost always works eventually.
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• #8
I've given bolts/ post a couple of applications of penetrating oil- maybe I'm not being patient enough....
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• #9
I managed to free up my last stuck bolts, h/bar stem and a seat post by numerous applications, little and often over a week. Both stem and seat post had to have it applied from beneath as described earlier but it worked a treat. Obviously a bench vise can be used but invariably causes damage.
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• #10
I'm happy to use a vice on the seatpost, it's for the tip once it's out....
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• #11
Ouch, don't use a vice on your tip once it's out
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• #12
Slow progress due to work and family stuff.... Brakes and seatpost now unstuck and removed from the frame. BB is still seized, having broken two tools attempting to remove it....
However, there are some loose bits of material inside the frame that were not there before I starting striping it down. I suspect that it's internal rust that manhandling the seatpost and BB has broken loose from the tubes. So the frame is probably dead.
So I now need a new frame. 56/57 cm, steel or alu. Mounts for guards preferred, extra points if it suits a 650b conversion. Does anyone have anything suitable?
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• #13
Doesn't have to be dead, wait til you get the bb out to inspect and make the call.
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• #14
That's probably the sensible thing to do, the loose material in the frame is making me a little nervous about it's integrity.... Will give the bb another go before writing it off though
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• #15
What kind of BB is inside? Did you try Sheldon's improvised method? Vice (LBS or a neighbour with a well equipped garage)? The loose material could be a leftover from brazing or whatever, a lot of frames have something rattling inside..
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• #16
square taper Italian threaded BB- I'll check out Sheldon method. Prior to me removing/ attempting to remove stuck parts there was no rattling from inside the frame, and nothing I removed has broken/ corroded as far as i can tell
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• #17
Even if it's rust doesn't have to mean anything. I've ridden horribly rusty bikes with no trouble and I'm 80 kgs. Clean it out and then rap carefully with a screwdriver/spanner handle or something to see if there's any dull sounds, give the external rust spots a good pry with knife/screwdriver. Sand down and inspect. Unless you poke through anywhere things should be ok. When dry, spray or pour linseed oil inside the tubes and hang up to dry for a couple of weeks, rotating every day or so to distribute evenly. Works on the outside too if you don't want to respray. YMMV but this has stopped rust in its tracks for me, rode a frame with bare metal around the bb/chainstays (treated with linseed oil) through three Swedish winters and no further rust.
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• #18
It was bare metal because I welded the chainstays where they'd rusted through from the inside btw.
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• #19
I have some 10 speed Shimano 105 brake levers and thumb shifters if you are interested and some rs10 wheels. All used but in good condition.
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• #20
Thanks for the tips. Good to hear about people fixing up and using things rather than chucking them.
More penetrating oil in the bb this evening and a new tool in the post
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• #21
Yes, can you post some pics of them please? What prices are you looking for?
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• #22
What Bb is in there? What tools are you using? Pics?
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• #23
It's a square taper centaur bb, was using a park tools model, can't remember which. I'll get some pics in the morning
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• #24
So, BB is still stuck but I'm convinced it'll come out with enough leverage. The in-laws have a workshop that I'll take it to...
Once out, and assuming the frame is OK, it'll be built up with a 1x10 drivetrain. I have cranks already. I'm thinking of using a clutch mech and trigger shifter so I can avoid chain guards etc. Does anyone have a clutch mech/ trigger shifter to sell?
Also after risers (something like Easton Monkey Lites), wheels (SRAM/ Shimano compatible), short drop callipers and brake levers
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• #25
BB is finally out and the frame is dead...
Too much rust on the inside and the BB threads are corroded beyond repair.
So I took a punt on a Kinesis RC frameset to replace it. Plan is still a 1x drivetrain and risers
1 Attachment
I have this Pinarello frameset. Both myself and Manchester's weather have not been kind to it and it's been ridden into the ground over the past 6 or so years. The RGR Risers Gonna Rase thread is making me want to build it up as an around town bike with flat or town bars and single ring drivetrain.
Seatpost and brake nuts are currently stuck, and I'm Unsure of how easily they'll come out. Any tips on removing them?
Frame has a fair bit of rust, but is salvageable in my eyes (assuming no major internal rust is present).
I have:
I Need:
3 Attachments