Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

@edscoble

how does one remove those cranks? from what I recall (at office now, bike downstairs) there was somekind of proprietary interface for crank removal?

i mean as compared to gxp 8 mm hex isnt the tool?

Hollowgrams?

You need the specific tool to extract them

Please please do not use copper grease

Yes you need the Si crank tools

Yes the shop needs to sort this for you in the first instance

KT013 and a spanner

First, check pedal to crank interface, rear QR (swap for a different one), saddle-rail/seatpost clamp interface etc etc - I've accused my BB30/PF30 BB's of creaking before and it's always turned out to be something else.

yeah mine creaks loads already. added another spacer to the sisl assembly but didnt really help that much. very fucking annoying

I'll take liberty to add @Dick to the creak club. Mine doesent but I praxis.

checked chainring bolts (they are tight), creak is there only when pushing with right feet (this implies no problem with qr?), creak is there when not seated

trying with diff pedals tonight. Ill take it to the shop tomorrow

The sound of the creak has two distinct phases that correspond to the torque and release of torque that I am creating when riding standing up.

I removed and re-fitted three different BB's before discovering it was the pedal spindles.

Your experience may differ, but I, personally, would swap everything else that I could before j'accuse-ing the BB. It may well be the BB, but that's the biggest pain in the arse to swap - QR's and pedals are easy.

yup ill try other qr also. Right now I have these cheap and flimsy lifeline ww thingies from wiggle

iirc those were also a culprit for an @dammit creak

so cheap and light :,(

my caad came with the rear qr contact areas of the frame heavily greased. I was like "what the fuck this might increase the chance of slipping or something" and took the grease off. MIght have to put some back there

Also, pics.

I've probably had more (cannondale) BB30 bikes than is sensible and only one developed a creak - after 1000miles of cyclocross. Swapped the FSA bearings out for Tokens and boom, not a squeek since...

My CAAD10 'popped' once a crank rev on a summer ride due to heat expansion over pre-loading the bearings with one too many spacers. Popped a spacer out and it's been silent since.

That QR needs to get into the bin. Close cam pls.

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/angryasian-death-to-crappy-quick-release-skewers-36417/

^ and this please

Yes, those QR's don't clamp very well, and that grease is a symptom of a creaking QR being silenced. Chuck a turbo QR in there and see what happens.

My BB creaks like fuck under any serious duress.
Other than that, when I'm seated and just cruising gently it's silky smooth.
As long as the road is like marble, otherwise there's the fucking rattling of the internal routing to deal with.
Stupid, shit design.
I do love the bike though, you just have to love it's faults also.

CannondaleTax®

#standardBB30

Built in torque meter

Rep

Yawn

I bet you £500 that I could build the bike without the creak, and there would be no creak until the bearings were ready to be punched out again. There's nothing wrong with BB30 if it's installed correctly - and the frame was manufactured correctly in the first place.