Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

So if I were to get my DS spokes to 120kgf and NDS to 53kgf I should have a perfectly dished wheel.

If you get your wheel perfectly dished, you will probably find that the tension ratio is 120:53

It's that way around, you start by getting the rim where you want it.

The ratio is roughly the inverse of the flange to center line distances

Ta all. Wheels built using science. Recorded all readings using a park tm-1 in their nice online app

http://www.parktool.com/wta?thickness=1.5&width=2

Worked my way bringing the numbers closer and closer together until variance was below 5%. Then did a few little tweeks and end ratio isn't far off the calc above.

I think my tm-1 tools absolute readings are a little high though, corroborated by its prediction that my factory built heds have DS tensions around 160kgf. Otherwise fingers crossed my spokes to pull through...

1 Attachment

Pillar psr1422 - marginally heavier and stiffer, 2.2mm on elbow, 1.6mm in the middle(flattened to 1.0 x 2.3) and 2.0mm at the thread. They don't need hub slotting.
I may have these for sale. Depending on color and lenght.
Lacing hope hubs radially is generally a bad idea.rs mono front will develop a play if laced radially, when the spokes pull the hub shell apart

Need to replace some rims but want to keep the hubs and spokes. Rims are only sold in the US (Flo 30) what are my chances of finding rims in the UK with the right measurements to be built with the same spokes?

Flo30 is listed at 577.5 erd.
Kinlin xr31t/Xr31 ocr is 578.
You can get them from me or cycleclinic sells them too.

Hi all, noobie questions. Trying to put a spec together for aero front clincher. Got about £150 budget for parts plus build cost, current thoughts are;

Planet X CT45 rim 20h
Hope pro 3 mono hub 20h
Sapim race spokes
Brass nipples

Looking to do a radial lacing, any reasons this combo won't work or is a bit crap?

Looking at Arup or LMNH to build.

Any advice muchos appreciated, cheers

i wouldn't lace a hope hub radially, for reasons i outlined few posts earlier.

Planet x rims is OK, you will need to purchase internal nipples for it.
Hubwise - Bitex RAR12, designed to produce the stiffest wheel due to a wide flange spacing, good size TPI bearings, fairly light, very affordable
Spokes - race is good or you can get Pillar Aero PSR spokes for a little bit more money, aero shape, stronger at the elbow, marginally lighter.

Shameless plug:
I sell Bitex and Pillar
I can build the wheel for you too

For a 18 h hub, what alternative lacing patterns are there?

Some of the lower spoke count hopes are meant to be ok for radial.

For a 18 h hub, what alternative lacing patterns are there?

Crows foot works for hubs with 3n spokes per side :-)

None really:)

They say so. Not true:)
You can always bang some bearing retaining compound in and pretend it never happened.

Never tried banging bearing retaining compound but I'll try anything once.

It's ok when wet. A bit more difficult when it cures

So don't fall asleep straight after?

Unless you wanna get stuck forever

Built with thousands of alloy nipples though and no problems. Brass nipples work fine but with thin spokes they can cause more wind up than alloy nipples. Corrosion does not seem to be a big issue either.

Cheers @broken_777

Those Bitex look good, nice prices too, where about are you located?

Don't really wan't to do the whole import thing so the PX carbon looked like a good deal. not fixed to having carbon though so an alternative suggestion on an aero rim would be welcome (looked at H son, Ryde, Kinlin and Pacenti amongst others)

Same here - if your spokes are the correct lenght, chances of breakage during the lifetime of rim is very slim. If your spoke threads are prepped correctly no seizing will ever occur. And wind up is a non issue with a properly lubricated components.

Im in South London.
As for rims - depending on the usage really. Kinlin XR31T is about 480grams , finish on these is amazing, very round and sidewalls are evenly machined. Very stiff rim.Pacenti is 440g give or take, shallower and less stiff. Finish leaves a lot to be desired for that kind of money.
H plus son Archetype looks really pretty ,is somewhat "heavy" for its depth and width, Finish is great, sometimes nipples get chewed up because of the sharp, silly V shape. Chamfering the nipple seats is a must with these.
Ryde - not much experience with these but i pressume similar to pacentis. Very pricy.

If you want aero, stiff and light. Carbon is the way to go:)

Can anyone suggest the ideal tension for my tandem wheelset? Rims are exal 26in, double eyelet, 40h. These ones. Spokes are 1.6mm, rear hub is Hadley disc. I think it's a symmetric build, if that makes any difference.

Whatever is the rim rated to.
120-130 kgf on drive is safe bet with majority of rims. And whatever it takes to on the nondrive to have your wheel dished.
I'd probably go with heavier gauge spokes or at least with larger elbow diameter like alpine 3,force or pillar psr series.
I'd definitely use spoke head washers.

Spoke selection will depend on the crew weight. With 26" rims and 40 spokes, normal DB spokes 16g in the middle will be stiff enough for an all-up weight of nearly 200kg, based on our experience with 36H 700C wheels. Yes, I'd use Alpine III, but I do that for solo wheels too ☺

Thanks for this. Crew weight not a big concern, it's around 140kg combined, but we travel with luggage.

Same tension for front wheel?