TCX XTC - Giant TCX SLR

OK, so after all the shit chat about disc brakes in the Cannondale thread, I saw a smal Giant TCX turn up cheap locally, and thought I'd jump on it. There's loads of lovely bridleways and fire tracks near me, so I'm going to use it as a summer canal cruiser and a cross racin', winter training bike. Being me, however, I'm also going to make it look awful, and it's riddled with problems from the off. Fucking brilliant!

Apart from popping a Romin on and some spare SPD pedals, and generally getting the fit sorted, I haven't done much apart from ride it about. It fits quite nicely and it's good fun - I can keep pace with people on club runs, and set a PR up Brassknocker too which is slightly worrying. It weighs 10.4kg, which is going to have to change...

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The bike came with a a single Hope 38t attached to a 6700 crank, which is pretty grim looking. I picked up a 5800 50/34 crank from our boy @Sumo, and I've got the front derailleur knocking about too, so first thing to do will be to fit that. I'm not sure if I'll need a new chain, but I expect that problem will make itself known fairly quickly if I do.

The brakes, despite being 160mm Spyres, are only ok at slowing me down and not brilliant at stopping. Despite my hearing this being a cross bike characteristic I'm not thrilled, so will be recabling them and maybe switching the pads out in the near future. At risk of summoning Scoble, what's a good, cheap, compressionless cable for discs? They also rub like a mother!

Apart from that and maybe sorting the fit, I'm not planning to fuck about too much more with the components right now. The bars are fine, the stem is what it is, and the seatpost is proprietary. The paint, on the other hand...

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My current thinking is to strip the frame, polish it, and then get someone to spray on a fade. After seeing @Hulsroy's latest frame, I'm quite tempted by getting Armourtex to put on a lick of Iridescent Black Fire, which would hopefully make the frame look slightly heat tempered towards the front / headtube. The forks will be stripped and rattle canned matte black, and I'm tempted to replace them with something like a Whiskey No. 7 to lose a bit of weight.

I'm pretty open to other ideas however - I was thinking about light primer grey with reflective / holographic finish Giant decals.

After that, and hopefully a couple of cross races, I'm thinking about SRAM 1X11 Hydro and some Far East carbon wheels in the long term 🤔 🤔 🤔

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For now - opinions on build, spec, paint appreciated. Are 35c Rocket Rons any good? Should 160mm discs feel pretty fucking grippy or no? Where does one ride cross around Bath / Bristol? How can I lose weight while increasing goodness? WHAT TYRE PRESSURES DO I RUN?????

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go for clement pdx, start with 3 bar and try to go down. i ride 2 to 2.5 bar with 90kg. also 160mm discs are great, especially for taller guys.
i had the same frame and loved it, only switched it to the carbon version as i get a pretty good deal.

I'm trying 25psi in the front and 35 in the back, I only weigh 60kg ¯_(ツ)_/¯

I'm going to have to try and sort this discs out, they feel really spongey right now.

Tyre pressures very dependent on what you are riding on - I go to 20psi ish for Clinchers with latex tubes in thick mud (lower on tubs) - at 63kg. More like 30 or so for firmer ground and perhaps up to 35-40 for very rocky terrain.

Plenty of CX riding around Bristol - Leigh Woods/Ashton court all doable on cross.

Summer CX series starts June I think and then Winter in Sept -> Feb. Lots of races near Bristol/Bath with some up by Cheltenham/Gloucester/Stroud.

i would also start with 30psi as cx isn't asphalt all the time. i'm fine with 30 to 35psi with clinchers and latex tubes on rough forest terrain without any flats.

Immediately tonnes better looking with the 5800 crank on - my front derailleur set up abilities* leave something to be desired and in a perfect world I'd have a new chain, but we're making progress at least!

*the patented 'fuck around with the screws until it shifts more than 50% of the time and call it a day' method. Courses available online.

Looking like this

Argh fucking forum

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Right, rode this a bit - it fits mint and is loads of fun, so it's time to pull it apart and fuck it up!

Gunna strip the frame and polish it, leave the forks black and trim the steerer (stem's down to the conical spacer now). Will also need to recable the discs because they feel like shiiiiiiit.

Having enjoyed the 35s, my thoughts turn to MOAR RUBBER. What's the best tyre for bit of road /gravel/horrible bridleways in 40c+?

Have also asked this lot if they can provide those 50mm carby clinchers sans brake track :) Will probably drop a bunch of weight but most importantly will look gnarly.

I'll document the paint strippin' for y'all, as I know everyone loves a tutorial.

This is a pretty useful set-up guide for 5/6800 FDs
http://www.moonigan.co.uk/index.php/2015/05/15/how-to-setup-a-shimano-ultegra-6800-front-derailleur/
I wonder if the Spyres are rubbing, it might be the discs are slightly bent? Mine have been completely fine once set up.
And apparently Goodridge cable outer is compression-less, and cheap. I used Jagwire stuff on my CAAD 10 disc

Wtb nanos are pretty decent, at 40c. Only read about Soma cazadero, get good reviews, 42c if memory serves.

Got the derailleur sorted, just took some swearing and a couple of cans.

They're not rubbing, they're just... they feel shit and don't work? Its hard to describe because I'm pretty new to discs, but they won't lock the wheel up and I need to take a serious handful to get them to work. I've set them up a couple of times, but always to the same ends. I'll just use some nice new cables and outers and hope for the best.

@jontea ta, will 'ave a look. Gunna switch over to latex tubes also, total convert.

Maybe try cleaning the discs/pads? Sounds similar to how my rear is now that some idiot got a bit of PTFE spray on it (me!), and a previously unhappy Magura Marta which is now doing sweet skidz 4 days

I'll give it a go now I've got everything stripped down - whats good at cleaning disks / pads? Isopropyl? Sand the pads a bit?

Got everything off the frame (bar the BB, cba with it). 1419g 🐷 🐷 🐷 !!! I dread to think what the fork weighs...

Yep, clean pads and discs. I rub over with some emery cloth, wipe clean with a dry cloth, also, if you use compressionless outers make sure the cable bends aren't too severe. Currently using shimano normal cables (inner and outer) and my spyres work perfectly, plenty modulation and will lock up if I need to.

If there's oil in the pads sand. Also these carbon wheels are heavy, why not an aluminum set with tubeless tyres? Less aeros but lighter, no flats and stupid low pressure if needed

This is also gunna double as my winter trainer, so aeros > weight really, and trust me, they're at least 300g lighter than the current boat anchors. I don't understand tubeless so am happy to go with that I know. I weigh nothing so latex tubes and stupid pressure has already happened (20psi, no problems)

Do Zipp do their cheapo rims in disc now? Some Zipp 60s would be banging

My advice to anyone looking to strip an aluminium frame with new (shite) nitromors and a razor blade - don't bother unless you have the hands of a docker and the patience of a saint.

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Lost 120g already though ¯_(ツ)_/¯ #everycloud

You need a wire brush on a angle grinder

^can confirm

Leave it like that, looks great

😒

A drill with a wire brush attachment would speed things up?

I got the weight of my M/L size TCX down to about 8 kgs in the end. The only remaining stock items were the frame, forks and seat post.

The best thing to change on the Spyres is the pads, the stock ones are rubbish. I got a set of the Superstar sintered pads and they improved the braking hugely. Add compressionless cables and the braking performance is adequate, although I don't think you'll ever lock the wheel as the Spyres don't bite, rather they apply pressure equally.