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Stoker stem problem is easy to solve, just use a normal 28.6 stem and a shim.
Yes, the pedal axles have probably been switched to make non-tandem cranks into a crossover drive. If you're only using one chainring for final drive, you might as well change to straight through for the timing chain, because it's better in every way. You can't reverse tap the cranks, you'll be cutting away more than half the remaining metal
I've got 105 (BR-5700) brakes on mine, they're decent enough. If I ever switch to aero brakes, I'll probably go with Magura hydraulics.
gbj_tester
@Miitch
Did someone say fluoro?
So this is the current progress, @haveo rode it with me yesterday and beside a few wobbles on starting off all was fine.
There are however just a few problems...
The bars have been cut/drilled to accommodate different brakes so it means the brake levers are positioned slightly far forward, especially on the left, therefore the hood hangs over the ends of the bar a bit plus the cable has a funny bend in it which means mucho de drag when applying the brake. I don't really fancy cutting any more holes in these distinctly cheese like bars.
So solution number 1 - put the holy bars on the back and find some new mavic deep drop horns for the front - this does involve finding a 27.2 to 26.0 stoker stem. It does also mean matchy matchy bars
solution 2 - get over it
Secondly the front (and half the rear?) cranks are on wrong way around due to the cross over drive so the pedals screw the wrong way - I'll want to use SPDs and probably sell the clips and straps.
Could I tap the threads to be the right way?
Also how on earth do my pedals work?...
This one has my brain hurting - has someone swapped the axles in the pedals?
Finally I want some new brake callipers - something beautiful and aero would be ideal (campag deltas?...) however I'm gonna want to stop this machine, and even modern aero brakes are notoriously pants, so I'm thinking black 105 callipers? any thoughts?