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• #102
So in other news, the axle body is aluminumium.
So I guess no tapping it.
What's my best alternative? @umop3pisdn maybe that skewer you have
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• #103
Not really sure I'd want to torque it up too much on the rear as there's no thrust bearing so you'd get loads of torsion in the skewer (help me out with physics someone), perhaps with a chaintug though?
If it was me I'd just use a QR, it's not really going to cost you anything like as much as it would on the front, given how turbulent everything is going to be around the dropout. Saving minimal watts from a QR seems a bit pointless when you've put a Di2 derailleur on there :P
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• #104
They work well on the front though don't they? My current (HED) skewer on the front is enormous, plus I'm not confident enough and don't have the tools to do the #testerapproved axle tapping.
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• #105
The viewspeed seems basically the same (it is the same) as the pinlock skewer I use on my town bike to stop the read wheel getting nicked. That's been fine during commuter races.
Maybe I'll just rob and use that.
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• #106
Well it's not gonna save you 50w, but it's worth doing for neatness if anything else. It's dead easy to do the axle.
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• #107
I could do with 50w.
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• #108
Not really sure I'd want to torque it up too much on the rear as there's no thrust bearing so you'd get loads of torsion in the skewer (help me out with physics someone), perhaps with a chaintug though?
It's a geared bike with track ends and axle stop screws, it won't need much skewer tension. On a classic P2, most of the ends of a Halo Hex Key skewer will be hidden in the relief in the ends behind the chainstays anyway.
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• #109
It's dead easy to do the axle.
On a Hed3? It is with the old steel ones. The newer aluminium ones are more of a pain, you have to replace the axle and the bearing holders, either custom like mine or assemble various mixed OTP parts like @Scilly.Suffolk did.
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• #110
Ah, didn't know they had axle stops. Either way not worth the hassle of importing from America (got someone to bring mine over for me)
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• #111
Couldn't we all.
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• #112
Just by pinlock next time! :)
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• #113
Yeah, if you find a few, send them my way, would be good, thanks!
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• #114
Can you tell from looking whether it is the easy variety? Mine doesn't have the bearing covers that scilly.suffolk seems to have...
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• #115
That's a steel axle, it's easy to tap. Just run an M6 tap into each end and get some suitable screws and washers.
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• #116
Does this image posted from my android phone?
Would be cool if the server would let me upload from phone.
Will lost from laptop later.New bearing in, runs smooth. And that's my tapped axle.
Also not much clearance on the hed ! The stickers are maybe .5mm thick, so they'll be a nice indicator if it's rubbing under power, if they rub off!
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• #117
:-S ! (Dat chainstay clearance)
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• #118
have you thought about putting a 650b wheel?
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• #119
Biek is done. But no photos as my phone is now also 'done'!
Need some more better chainring bolts, anyone got a suggestion for good quality chainring bolt. Steel ones?
Saw some Specialites T.A. ones for £15. Steel. Good?
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• #120
£15
!
Stronglight. Just bought some, quick delivery.
Did you get a front brake sorted? I've got a Tektro centre pull, no pads or shoes, £10 + post.
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• #121
Thanks!
And yeah thanks, just used one I had, will do fine.
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• #122
Get some SRAM/Truvativ double hex bolts so you don't have to fuck around with a chainring tool
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• #123
Stronglight
I'm not mad about their plated ones, but the stainless are sound.
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• #124
I didn't know there were two versions: the packet states "zinguees" (galvanized).
What's the difference, apart (I assume) from the price?
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• #125
What's the difference, apart (I assume) from the price?
The stainless ones are made of stainless steel, and don't corrode very badly. The plated ones aren't, and do. There's very little difference in price, it's hard to compare as few outlets bother to stock both so you might easily find the stainless ones cheaper at one shop than the plated ones are at another, but in theory the stainless ones are about 25% more.
So true it, although I'm too lazy to bother with 0.5mm once the wheel is actually on a bike.