-
Not really sure I'd want to torque it up too much on the rear as there's no thrust bearing so you'd get loads of torsion in the skewer (help me out with physics someone), perhaps with a chaintug though?
If it was me I'd just use a QR, it's not really going to cost you anything like as much as it would on the front, given how turbulent everything is going to be around the dropout. Saving minimal watts from a QR seems a bit pointless when you've put a Di2 derailleur on there :P
umop3pisdn-
They work well on the front though don't they? My current (HED) skewer on the front is enormous, plus I'm not confident enough and don't have the tools to do the #testerapproved axle tapping.
-
Not really sure I'd want to torque it up too much on the rear as there's no thrust bearing so you'd get loads of torsion in the skewer (help me out with physics someone), perhaps with a chaintug though?
It's a geared bike with track ends and axle stop screws, it won't need much skewer tension. On a classic P2, most of the ends of a Halo Hex Key skewer will be hidden in the relief in the ends behind the chainstays anyway.
ewanmac
gbj_tester
So in other news, the axle body is aluminumium.
So I guess no tapping it.
What's my best alternative? @umop3pisdn maybe that skewer you have