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Check the clearance from caliper to spokes. If you lace the right way, that will open up when you brake, if you lace the wrong way it will close up. If there's at least 2mm clearance with no load, I wouldn't bother to relace. On the other hand, I'd have done it right first time ☺
gbj_tester-
So I did this and there was enough clearance... but now I know it's wrong I'm going to have to undo it :(
Gah, 18 spokes to relace - there's going to be a lot of nipples lost in rims!
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Yet (unless i'm being very dense and reading them backwards) the Shimano instructions specify spoke patterns what will see the woven crossing points move outwards under disc-braking forces for all except the drive-side rear.
I've heard it said that having outbound spokes take the braking forces gives the wheel a little more lateral strength under braking due to their slightly better bracing angle. Maybe Shimano are so confident that they've designed their hubs and calipers to avoid crashing the spokes into the calipers that the marginal bracing effect is worth going for. Whether that's still true when you bring other manufacturer's components into the mix is less clear.
highlandmoo
moth
Righteo, looking to pick some brains here. More or less just finished truing and tensioning a rear disc wheel (36h Grand Cru touring hub laced to Velocity Chukker, DT Swiss Alpine III spokes). Because this is my first disc hub build last night did some double checking about whether I need to lace it differently (I was just following the Jobst Brandt book like with the rim brake builds I've done).
Attached picture is what I've done. However, this is what Peter Verdone + Shimano says to do
i.e I've got my braking spokes with the heads the wrong way. Drive side is fine.
Question is: should I relace the braking side??