Race of Truth (TT Bike)

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  • Just be glad I put the drill away!

  • just measured and that's the one.

    Well, that proves my point because my new-ish Hed takes 6901 up front. My old Specialized rear takes 6001 on the NDS.

  • Di2 done.
    Had to meet the wires under the junction box. Not ideal, but can't get them all around the bend and thus internal. Junction A is in the seat tube. Can't see a place to put it external, that is sheltered.

    Can't decide if I should have both shifter cables go into top tube, or just the one with the other crossing between extensions.

    Looking at pic, I wonder if 3 port junction box on top stem, then 1 wire into top tube would work. Don't think junction box would be in wind really. As behind hands/garmin.


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  • Could you drill the extensions and put the wire running between them inside the base bar?

  • Good idea, but also sounds like a pita to then try and thread that through.
    I'm thinking of putting the junction box on the stem anyway, as in real terms it'll make no difference. But it will mean there is more chance of me remembering to charge the thing! It should be quite neet, one shifter into each side, then cable from middle out and over headset top cap into hole, can tape that cable too as won't move.

  • Measured the position up yesterday based on my old fit (which was fast). It fits mint.

    Need a small bit of adjusting here and there, then will cut the extensions when happy.


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  • 10/10 - Retül eat your heart out

  • ^ ha

    @mdcc_tester is it safe to tap and use a bolt in the rear axle on the p2, with its horizontal track ends?

  • is it safe to tap and use a bolt in the rear axle on the p2

    It's what I've got on my T3. Usual caveats apply - I've had plenty of experience with conventional steel QR axles, where the bore is cylindrical and just over 5mm. I don't know whether the caps on a Fulcrum R7 are steel, whether they have a hex socket to aid disassembly, or whether the cylindrical bore (if present) is long enough to give sufficient thread engagement. If you can satisfy yourself about the suitability of the axle, then tap away, the track ends are more secure than road dropouts, and I've had no problems running bolt-on conversions in vertical carbon dropouts either.

  • Thanks. Wouldn't be on the fulcrum, but on my nice hed jet disc. I'll have a look today.

  • If you're doing this for aeros then halo do a hex key skewer, I don't use the rear but do at the front - it's not as neat as testers bolt on option but better than a qr size wise and you can try them for not much without potentially screwing up a very nice wheel!

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/halo-hex-key-skewer-set/rp-prod26621?gs=1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwo_y4BRD0nMnfoqqnxtEBEiQAWdA12xeQQLd-AlsUDgmGZM3m8PbfJ2R0gmJDzsN-T8nGKEEaAizC8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

  • The pinlock I have is more aero than that!

    Tapping the axle won't affect threading a QR skewer through.

  • @umop3pisdn is using Viewspeed on his untappable hub

    Super tarty cup washers will be happening some time this year


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  • couldn't you just use a pinhead skewer and cut the threaded end flush with the nut? with the added advantage that no one steals your wheels during sign on

  • Is the axle of a Jet disc steel or alu? Would not tap if alu..

  • BTW the Viewspeed is measurably faster than a QR.

  • Reading the slowtwitch review, they eat up your dropouts though, especially carbon. Or have they released a new design?

  • We'll never know unless they add dimensions to their product description ☺

  • The hed jet disc is .5mm out of true at one point. As a spoked wheel, that's not really acceptable is it? It should be perfectly true?

  • Called hed, they said that they're trued to o.2mm from new.

  • I'd be well happy with just 0.5mm out of true.

  • hmm

    I dunno. I'll see. That kind of thing bugs me, when it could be perfectly true.

    I'd have to take it to someone, no way I could true it perfect. I know my weaknesses.

  • Chances are it's one nipple that's loosened about 1/4 turn.
    If you can spin it, stop it (using the brake) at the offending point, then check inside the rim for the offending nipple, you'll probably be able to true it with a flathead screwdriver.
    If it doesn't work, or you bottle it, take it to a mech, but if you sort it, you've saved yourself a trip.

    EDIT: Ignore! Forgot that although it's a fairing disc, there aren't really any methods of determining whether a given nipple/spoke goes to NDS or DS without prior knowledge of the wheel/rim.

    EDIT EDIT: The offending nipple/spoke could be identified by counting around (clockwise from valve hole, viewed from DS) using an image of a HED C2 rim/Ardennes wheel (same rim used on disc IIRC) for reference. Looking at most wheels on their website, the first spoke viewed from this angle goes to NDS.

  • Yeah good idea.
    It is proberly one nipple a tiny bit lose.
    I could find the right spot and just make a small change ona nipple mark the nipple with something so I know which one I turned. If better great, of not better undo and try again.

    Or just find better things to do than mess with it for .5mm.

    And given I can't find one of my assignments due in, i have a lot more pressing issues!

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Race of Truth (TT Bike)

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