Race of Truth (TT Bike)

No chance buying a flo it'll be here by early May, was about 6 weeks from order to collection for me and there was 20 odd percent import duty to pay - so although still relatively good value not as cheap as they first look!

105 hub.
Tbh no, it does fit this wheel okish now, I re adjusted it. Plus it's pretty worthless, since I've abused it now anyway! Sorry.

Ran the di2 this evening. Ball ache due to the weird carbon layup inside the seattube.
Going to have to settle with junction box for derailleur under bottom bracket. Can't get everything internally. The bonded bb shell is a bastard pita.

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Cool say hi!

Anyone got one of these kicking about?

Can't decide if that in the tri bars or one of the newer 3 ports junciton box is cleaner in the seat tube is better.

@mdcc_tester the bearings in the tri spoke are a bit rough (have been in my loft for a few years)
What ones do I need to replace them with?

Found some nice leather to re cover the saddle for this bike. Will be plush. Job for tomorrow.

Considering running 2 extra strips of leather on the saddle for a bit more padding. Probably won't, not needed really.

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Just strip out the grease and stick some wet chain lube in.

I used some brake cleaner and air. Then silicone grease. But still feels rough.

bearings in the tri spoke are a bit rough (have been in my loft for a few years)
What ones do I need to replace them with?

Which trispoke? I think front H3 uses 6901 but there's no substitute for taking your own measurements as they have tweaked the hub design over the years and I don't know for sure that they haven't used different bearings at some time.

I think Tester had issues with his Mk1 Ventus on hsi T3.

I wouldn't call it an issue, I just had to file it a bit

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the calculator said -17 would be flat, but it isn't

That may be because P2 head angle is 72°30', not 73° :-)

An old specilized one photo page 1. I'll measure with a vernier caliper.
Thanks

Most likely 6001 bearing (OD 28.0 x ID 12.0 x B 8.0mm).

Thanks, just measured and that's the one.

Seen tester post a link to them on simply bearings. Will order.

What's the best way to fit them, can I just use the axle the press them in?

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/199359/

Or, if you have a large-ish socket set, you can use two sockets, that are slightly smaller than the bearing, as drifts, to tap them in with a hammer.
Most important thing is to ensure that whatever you use as a drift ONLY comes into contact with the outer race (hence the suggestion of using the old bearings).
Using the axle alone would press against the inner race, and most likely knacker the bearing.

OK thanks @Lukas and @Scilly.Suffolk

However with the tri spoke there isn't anything to rest the hub on to support it. Suggestions on removal?
I'll just use the old bearings to push new ones in the , that's a good idea.

True, and the bearing seats thread onto the axle from outside, rather than than the inboard axle/seat arrangement of the Formula hub in the tutorial
I think when I replaced mine, I just used an old 10mm axle as a drift to poke into the hub and whack the opposing bearing (in a criss-cross whacking sequence) out using a hammer.
I forget that I used to rest the hub body on... Think I might have centred the wheel over an oversized socket that the bearing could fall into.
Once the first one is out, you could thread an old bearing seat onto an axle and whack in a similar fashion to the tutorial.
You might want to wear earplugs during removal - the whole wheel resonates and the noise is incredibly loud and piercing.

Great thanks.
Will do as advised!

In other news, going to have a smash (literally) at getting all the di2 wires internal again tonight. It's bugging me.

Found a rear disc. So just waiting on my 56t chaingring. Because I need to compensate for my small ability.

What disc did you get?

Be careful! :-D

Hed jet off TT forum. Need to go collect it. Thanks to @umop3pisdn for the shout!