Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

And when the consumables weren't your wheels!

You weigh how much again?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUzUbtIptqQ&feature=youtu.be&t=22s

fair

Not good ol' cantis though.

Yeah, there's feck all you can do if the factory made an arse of them. Swings and roundabouts.

http://road.cc/content/news/186893-disc-brakes-banned-french-sportives-including-letape-du-tour

No discs for MAMILs either

Hah now that is amazing

Not in a good way

"Sigma sport goes in liquidation"

Oh good grief. Overreact much?

Turns out BB7s solved all clearance problems. Kinda annoying they don't have an integrated barrel adjuster but oh well, the inline ones feel okay.
Will report on performance after tomorrow's ride.

I've found BB7s and BB5s to be excellent, but I may have been lucky...

Inline barrel adjuster is more useful I reckon.

Kinda annoying they don't have an integrated barrel adjuster...

There's a post a few pages back that explains why they don't.

Basically, to ensure proper function, the arm needs to be able to fully return to it's resting position. The outboard pad adjuster takes the place of the barrel adjuster.

Precisely this, I do the same on the Spyres instead of using the barrier adjuster.

Exactly!

Something to note:

Any adjustments to get the non-static pad closer to the rotor should always be done via the red bit.

The arm on bb7s should never be actuated/tensioned to move the pads closer before securing the cable. i.e. should always be at 5 o'clock not 4 or 3 when the cable is tightened. This is due to the bearing and ramp mechanism which moves the pad (if you have serviced one or looked at the manual you'll know this).

No time for a detailed explanation on the mechanics why you shouldnt but it has got to do with the way the bearing sits when you apply your brakes.

Inline barrel adjuster is more useful I reckon.

It can be but having a slight interrupter can make a difference in how the brakes feel, I always fit a full-run housing from brake levers to calipers providing there is a way to adjust the pads (like the BB7, this allow a much slicker modulation and less contamination too.

You can still use a barrel adjuster to get fine grain control and to tweak the set-up whilst you ride. It's pretty much essential for cross racing :)

grim

People always managed to burn themselves on the rotors since the 90's, specifically stupid people.

Steve Gurney got cut on a rotor during the NZ Pioneer MTB stage race. He just got back on and finished, like a boss. So the issue isn't discs, it's Europeans.

http://www.newshub.co.nz/sport/pioneer-bike-race-close-to-conclusion-2016020519#axzz46ZnRQc00

So specifically stupid Europeans.

I'm sure the pro-roadie industry could come up with a far better version of the rotor/caliper guards used in bike polo. Lighter, more resilient, more aero. Probably carbon.

I'll go into production.

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The Pro usually known to suffer serious injuries during a race and carry on to complete it.

But when it come to disc, it's all finger pointing going "MUMMY THIS BAD MAN DID THIS TO ME!"

TRP Hylex

Is there a (near) matching lever to use on the non-disc side (assuming you were running front brake only)? I can only find the RRL, which has a kinky lever.

TRP list them as being left-front, right rear (which suits me, as that's what I normally have), but Wiggle (for example) list them the other way around (ie the usual UK arrangement): would I need to buy them from Europe or Asia to get them as originally specified?

Specialized staff spotted with disc cover

He's going street riding