TomvanHalen's tourer - Raleigh 853 (sick flames ITT)

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  • Looks good. I've been quietly watching your project as I have an old MTB frame that I've been using as a tourer/commuter and it's now knackered and needs a new lease of life. I think the 1x9 is the way to go. Or maybe 1x7 for me...

    Did you sort out your BB issues? It does need mudguards to be a proper tourer, especially if you're going to Wales like that map you posted earlier suggests :)

  • So good, I've been deciding whether to buy those tyres to replace some big apples for ages. This may have persuaded me.

    Really nice build

  • Yeah, had to be very careful setting them up, but mostly issues when reinstalling wheels as it's a real push to get the tyres past the pads.

    The paint job really is wonderfully hideous isn't it? I love it. I have classier plans for the future.

  • 8sp is the consensus for super reliable, but 9 is also cheap and is the nicest era of components imo. I've wanted XTR forever.

    BB was fine, had to chase the threads further and it's not as silky smooth as external or sq. taper, but no more binding.

    Mudguards is the plan, but I still don't know how to attach the rear...

  • Really cool and unique bike! Looks fun to ride.

  • 1x10 or 1x8, 9 speed isn't worth it unless you can get them for cheap, chain wear is similar to the 10 speed, but with one less cog.

    Also any 8/9 speed derailleur work with 10 speed as long it's not those shadow/clutch one.

  • This is so gang! Looking forward to ride reports on the tyres.

    @edscoble Wait wait, hang on. 8 speed derailleur on 10 cassette?

  • Yeah, same cable pull, as long you use a 10 speed chain.

    You can run a 10 speed derailleur on an 8 speed shifter, just need to get the indexing down right.

  • Awesome. Running old school 8x3 LX, but could do with a more linear range out back as opposed to constantly cross shifting.

  • Just remember to avoid the 10spd shimano MTB stuff - they've changed the pull ratio of the mechs/shifters. Likewise, I've heard the 11spd Shimano road stuff has a different pull ratio so won't play nice with 10spd stuff (would love to be told otherwise, I have some 5800 stuff I'd like to use).

  • Drill the seat stay bridge vertically - Allen bolt down and through mudguard.

  • That's fine for that bit, and I can get p-clips or axle mounts for the stays. The problem is there's no chainstay bridge or pulley mount to attach to

  • Absolutely perfect for my taste. Great job.

  • I've heard the 11spd Shimano road stuff has a different pull ratio so won't play nice with 10spd stuff.

    It does use a different pull ratios, and the new Tiagra 4700 use similar ratio.

  • Thought so. Annoying, as the 5800 derailleurs looks to be much nicer than the 5700.

  • What about one of those bottle cage bracket things reversed at the bottom of the seat tube?

  • FYI to people who want to mix and match shimano 11spd Road / mtb, you just need the Wolf tooth tanpan.

    J-Tek probably make something to cover every other combination knowing them, just look though their FAQ, sjs sells all if them I believe.

  • Looks like that could work. Good shout.

  • Or you extend the dropout and use a 6800 derailleur. less pleasing to look at, but seems to work pretty well.

  • Hah, no, I was replying to the mudguard conversation. I hate Shimano road shifting

  • After much blood and swearing and trips to the hardware shop, full FBNPNA has been achif. Except I haven't found anything to make mudflaps with. And they're the wrong size because Planet X didn't have the 60mm in long, so I need to order just the guards from Gilles Berthoud. Sigh

  • That look like the short version.

    Got me thinking about making exactly your bike.

  • Yeah, I think the 60mm version and the 650b/700c sizes are longer, but it's definitely the long, the daruma hole is in the right place

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TomvanHalen's tourer - Raleigh 853 (sick flames ITT)

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