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8sp is the consensus for super reliable, but 9 is also cheap and is the nicest era of components imo. I've wanted XTR forever.
BB was fine, had to chase the threads further and it's not as silky smooth as external or sq. taper, but no more binding.
Mudguards is the plan, but I still don't know how to attach the rear...
Looks good. I've been quietly watching your project as I have an old MTB frame that I've been using as a tourer/commuter and it's now knackered and needs a new lease of life. I think the 1x9 is the way to go. Or maybe 1x7 for me...
Did you sort out your BB issues? It does need mudguards to be a proper tourer, especially if you're going to Wales like that map you posted earlier suggests :)