Cannondale r1000 Race Bike

Just gotta rotate the saddle and bars forward a touch but otherwise it's ready to roll, could do with lowering the front end slightly but that means full commitment to this stem and cutting the steerer down more

Top tube is pretty much flat on that, right? I'd go for neg 17 or whatever and a slightly less shouty stem if you know what I mean...

Yeah dead flat, though while a -17 stem would line up with the toptube nicely it would put the bars too low, a -10 stem sat on the conical spacer puts the bars in the right place, this is -6 but has a much lower stack so if I was to cut the steerer down it would put the bars in the same place. A new 135mm x 10 stem would work (if I could find one) or stick with this one but there'd be no turning back once the steerer's cut. I hear you though, it is loud

Thomson makes -10 stems (I think both x2 and x4) and it would nicely match to the seatpost

I've been racing this most weekends and making little changes as I go. I borrowed and bought a vast selection of stems (130mm-150mm with 6 to 17) and the 140mm -17 fits best, feels great having so much weight over the front wheel and I can ride 1hr + crits in the drops comfortably. Also got some 6800 brakes to go on here as I switched the 6500's to my work bike.

(apologies for the pic quality)

Hit a snag today though, the front mech broke, not sure whether to search for a 9-speed Shimano front mech (holla if you've got one one) or seeing as the groupset is really old take this as a cue to move to 11s, probably 105

In the meantime I've taken the mech off leaving it 1 x 9. I'm supposed to be racing a crit tomorrow, big ring only is no problem but will the chain jump ship? Anything I can do to prevent it?

I got a single 6800 brake a while ago and the improvement from 6600 was amazing, and have just built up a bike with 6800 shifting, and the new FD is really nice too- think it shares the same design with the 5800 so 105 should be good. Obvious question but, are your wheels 11spd compatible? If so, then I would say do it absolutley

Yeah there's a massive improvement in power with the new brakes, if the improvement in shifting is on par with that then I'm looking forward to it! The wheels are 11s compatible, the only thing stopping me pulling the trigger right now is finances...

Oh, and I found this guide really helpful in laying out a few extra steps for setting up the FD
http://www.moonigan.co.uk/index.php/2015/05/15/how-to-setup-a-shimano-ultegra-6800-front-derailleur/

Leave the knackered mech on and centre it over big ring with limit screws?

Cheers, very handy

Same was suggested in the CP thread, think that's what I'll do for now

good project, keeps getting better!

That stem!

Awesome crit machine. A+. How are the races going?

Thanks, yeah it's the perfect tool for the job and I think it looks pretty sweet/serious too. You were right all along, neg 17 stem ftw! Funny how looks right and feels right seem to go hand in hand.

I work as a courier so I'm always fit but always fatigued too and haven't trained since May last year. I find short fast crits don't really suit me but I'm looking to do more road racing this year, viewing crits as the perfect tune up, high intensity work out with tactic and positioning practise thrown in. I nudged off the front with one lap to go today but got caught and passed by the bunch in view of the line. Verdammt!

I raced today without the front mech, the chain stayed put and it was actually nice just flicking through 7 (didn't want to push it to the top of the cassette just in case) gears with the one shifter. Seriously considering picking up a 44t narrow-wide single ring for the front.

FOR SALE £550

Complete bike as above but with Sora 9s front mech (works perfectly) and WITHOUT FLO WHEELS, will include the Fir wheels that came with it and have a selection of stems to choose from to help size it to the new owner