Aerodynamics / Aerodynamic Cost / Aero parts

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  • Oh hai

    EXTERMINATE!
    EXTERMINATE!
    EXTERMINATE!

  • Yeah that was my thought too. I'll pull a battery our and see. If not I'll come up with another idea.

    I just like di2, so much nicer IMO.

  • Lol winning Aussie genetics!

  • If you get the DI2 battery in the extensions then please share! I abandoned the idea on my P2, but it would be awesome if it could be made to work neatly!

  • Reckon it should work (if the extensions are alloy - carbon walls likely to be thicker, so possibly less room?)

    Thats a Zipp 22.2mm 110 extension


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  • Do you only turn right? Weeeeeee ohh

  • eh? No, but I am running a 1x11 setup - so no cable to the front mech at the moment (yet to pick up all the parts for di2)

  • It's a while since I looked into it, but I think that the problem with mounting the battery in the seat tube is that the BB shell is solid and so there is no way to run the wires internally.

    This is the only real problem I can see. The shifters>Junction B cable can be threaded in the same way as the mechanical cables down the downtube, or you could drill a hole in the top of the top tube in the tried and tested fashion and insert them from there. The hole for the front derailleur cable would need to be extended to allow for a Di2 cable to pass through it, but that's not a biggy. The only two problems I can see are that I'm not sure the standard Shimano Di2 battery will fit inside a P2 seattube (not a problem for me as I have a DIY hacked external battery which is thin enough to fit inside the seat post of an S2), and how to get the cable from the seat tube into the Junction B given the absence of any internal connection between the seat tube and the down tube.

    I suspect the answer will simply be to drill and extra hole or two.

    There's also the issue of whether or not it's possible to insert an internal Junction B box inside the downtube or somewhere else, or whether you'd have to use the external Junction B box which would be sub-optimal.

  • Weight in the right, leaning, only turning right. You know, like the bloke nailed to the floor through one shoe. Nevermind, as long as it's funny in my head.

  • er, lol, I think :P

    Thats the (back of the) left extension as well btw :)

  • Wicked. It'll work.
    Or I'll borrow @hippy's hammer and make it work.

    Thanks @danstuff sounds like it'll be staight forward.

  • What's the stack height plz?

  • Just found this on TTF forum by the TTGOD.

    This is what I'll do. Hole in head tube behind steerer, cervelo don't seem to mind that, so will be fine. But I'll use the seatpost battery and hide it internally somewhere.

    I've fitted Di2 to my P2. Just drilled one hole in the top of the head tube behind the steerer, used the existing exit hole near the BB. The only other mod was to enlarge the hole for the front mech cable, which doesn't prevent mechanical cabling still working in the future if required. You could easily enough route the front mech cable externally, though.

    I used an adapter plate to move the bottle mount so that the battery would fit:
    http://www.artscycle...-SHDI2BCBA.html
    I routed the cable from the BB to the battery externally. It might be possible to put that cable into the frame through the same hole as the front mech cable, but then you'd need to drill another hole for it to exit near the battery. It could probably work quite nicely with the internal battery down the seat tube instead, you could probably get a cable to there via the hole that the front mech cable goes into.

    It can be very difficult getting the Di2 cables through to where you want them. I ended up having to attach some cotton to a mechanical cable inner, then thread that cable inner through, which works okay as that is what the bike is designed for. Then detach the cotton and remove the cable inner, so you now have a length of cotton going all the way through the frame. Fasten the Di2 cable to the cotton and pull the Di2 cable through. The front mech cable was still tricky to pull through and took a lot of jiggling about, it doesn't seem to quite have a big enough gap inside the frame for it to travel through in a straight line, so there's a lot of luck in getting it to finally pull through.

  • Is this the same kind of "Transition"?

    Tatty, £100 posted...

  • What's the stack height plz?

    3mm from the top of the headset collet to the bottom of the stem

  • How much £?

  • How much £?

    That's up to Nutshell

  • It'll cost you your spacers & bridge, if you gazump me... :0

  • Double checked. And yeah battery fits with at least 1 cable in there. Maybe 2 with some erm, force.

  • Nice one. Am guessing an internal junction b is too wide though...

  • The jc41 box?
    Don't think so, but not a spare to check. Could just bury that in BB shell though. I don't think it matters where the battery connects to the citcut? Could plug it into the main A junction box no?

  • I'm blind. Too much porn.

  • Anyone know the clearance for wheels/tyres on the p3 2013.

    Wonder if the hed jet plus will fit. They're 25mm

    http://www.hedwheels.com/proddetail.asp?prod=JET9PLUS14

    Guess I'll could go measure and tyre my other rims.

  • Ventus 2/Cervelo P3/TriRig Omega X and a super-tarty cable stop


    2 Attachments

    • Cable hanger front view.jpg
    • Cable hanger side view.jpg
  • Looks clean.

    Think I need one of those machined cable stops.

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Aerodynamics / Aerodynamic Cost / Aero parts

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