M_V's multitude of bikes and adventures in the land of framebuilding

I'd been advised that silver solder probably wasn't strong enough a joint for brake posts but I'd done it anyway and tbh, the posts stayed in place - felt solid as a rock infact - the few times I rode the bmx with a front brake. However, the brake didn't stay long as I just didn't like riding with it and once I'd removed it, I wasn't for having redundant mounts on my fork.

Considering how solid the brake had felt while riding I was quite surprised how easily a wee dunt with a hammer popped the posts off the fork..

Also changed the rear wheel (back to freewheel) on the bmx and fitted a new hubguard. Needed a bit of modification due to not really fitting as it should with my large dropouts so brazed a cut off bolt into it to stop it rotating. Dead handy having the ability to braze now as otherwise, this hubguard would have been useless.

Recently, more than bike stuff though I've been making some jewelry. I've been using slices of a stainless steel Triumph Bonneville handlebar to make the bands and other various bits and bobs that I find in the workshop/spares box/bin to make the other parts.

Bolt heads cut down to make spanners,

This just has a piece of brass inserted to increase the diameter to fit my finger, I was going to remake it with gold in place of the brass and have it as my wedding band (getting married in September) but I wore this one home under my glove one night and despite my hand sweating and getting damp etc the brass didn't seem to leave a mark so might just use this one.

And also made this out of spoke,

I'm waiting till I can get a proper photoshoot done with the jewellry and then I'll be listing those things on my Etsy shop.

Superted's pics on Instagram have been making me think about brazing some sort of headtube badge onto the bmx but I'd probably need to remove the headset cups and it'd fuck the paint up so haven't done anything about it yet...

brake booster reppppp

@m_v did you ever buy any OA kit? I know you mentioned it and wondered what your experience of it is? Cheers.

I didn't. I looked into it and decided it might invalidate my home insurance.

Personally, I could have dealt with that but my garage is in a block and I didn't fancy the prospect of forking out to have multiple garages rebuilt and replacing cars etc from my own pocket if there were to be an explosion.

^ sh*t hadn't thought of that! I was gonna buy one of these little kits but maybe a small oxy tank is still enough to cause a serious issue.
Maybe I'll buy a mapp rotherberger thing as I only really want to do small bits like eylets and rack mounts.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oxy-Fuel-Mapp-Pro-Brazing-Welding-Kit-Glasswork-Soldering-Silver-3000oC-Oxyturbo-/281812046022?hash=item419d4e90c6:g:ycMAAOSwX~dWijhe

cheers

One piece of advice I'd be giving anyone who's about to go out and buy kit would be to look for something with adjustable/interchangeable tips.

Doing that Enneagram up there^ was almost impossible as I kept desoldering one joint as I was trying to make another. I broke and fixed it about a dozen times!

From what I've read you'll burn through the oxy tanks on those kits really quickly.

Lots of ppl using Oxy-Propane setups. Which give a heat closer to Oxy-Acet, or closer than MAP gas alone. Plus you can get a tank from B&Q and its less volatile.

@tallsam, ta, I had heard that as well re the Oxy usage. Sounds like Mapp level/type torch (with different nozzles) is best and easiest way forward.

I don't know why but I fancy having a crack at rack as well.

Re tanks, while looking into an OA setup I realised that while the torch etc could be found relatively cheaply, gas was another matter.

The larger tanks need hiring/deposit paying at quite an expense but were cheap to fill, small bottles that are available rent free are a fortune too.

Few more rings I've made lately,

And just bought longer bmx frame off ebay so I'm determined to do a headtube badge on it before I build it up.

Cut from 3mm stainless sheet,

Spoke to my dad who has sandbags at work (metalwork shop in a uni) and was going to go use one to put the curve in it next week but I got bored at work so got busy with a block of wood, a hammer and some other bits and bobs and got it a good bit of the way done, can't really finish it till I have the frame in hand and know the actual curvature required.

Those rings are great. Nice work

They would be if they didn't leave big dirty rusty marks. :(

is there an easy/cheap way to plate them?

I will be looking into this. Annoyed though as the band if stainless so it's fine, it's just the chain link that's marking.

I could lay the chain link on top of a complete band but won't look as good.

Lay it on top, then 'build up' the edges so they're flush?

How did you achieve the curvature on the headbadge? Did you place it against a curved thing and beat it out with the hammer?

Started off in the vice with a stack of postcard sized 1mm balsa sheets on one size and a Park crown race setter (basically a pipe) on the other and just clamped it up. Then moved to laying it on a bit of 2x2" pine, the crown setter and big Allen keys etc on the back and beat on it with a hammer.

Yeah, could effectively fillet braze it. Might give that a try.

Would have liked more of a fillet around the badge but it's on there and seems to be pretty solid! Think I'm hitting the limits of the Mapp torch not, really struggled to get and keep this all hot. At one point I had my Mapp torch in one hand, on the inside of the headtube, a butane torch in the other on the outside and was holding/feeding the brazing rod with my mouth.

Applied a tin of Halford's rustproofing primer and then 2 coats of satin black, left to dry and then tried to scrape the paint off the headbadge. Should have left it longer though as the paint was still soft and I've pulled a load of it off the headtube. Bit concerned about how easily it's peeling up and the finish wasn't the best so going to drop it in for powdercoat in the morning.

Any suggestions of the best way to strip the powdercoat off the headbadge once I get it back? Razor blade?

You could invest in some firebricks to help with your qorkpieces cooling down. Apparently they help retain the heat.

I guess razor blade followed by delicate sanding of affected area, followed by polish with a dremel?

I'd go for a sanding block.
Get a straight piece of hardwood and glue a piece of sandpaper on.
Sand smooth and then polish.
If you use the block, you should be able to get it done without hurting the paint on the Headtube or the side of the badge.

Can't they mask the badge before coating?

Aye they've said they'll try masking it. They were more concerned about the media blast leaving a rough finish on the badge. I can sort that though. Hopefully get it back Monday or Tuesday so we'll see how it is.

^Not getting bmx frame till later in the week so that left today free to tinker with my newest acquisition,

I'd been talking to the mrs about struggling to keep up with geared mates and wanting a 'sensible' bike and she said why don't I buy one, don't need to be told twice so picked this up from Rutland in Peterborough on my way home from Bespoked.

Made a few people at Bespoked headset caps, just builders I already knew their stuff or that I saw on the exhibitor list and liked their stuff. Was a nice way to meet some people, Toby from Toad was especially awesome, nice chat with him and he liked his cap so much he fitted to it one of the bikes on his stand there and then!

Chatted to a guy at Bespoked about silverplating so think I'm gonna give those rings a go. Bit more research to be done first though and chatted to Ted about brazing so I'm going to look into oxy/propane again.

Think I might build a front rack fro the Day One, just something to strap a sleeping bag etc to. I saw a few racks at Bespoked that have given me some ideas...

How do you make the stem caps?

Looks nice.

Nice 'sensible' bike too.